2014 Wills Domain Block 9 Margaret River Scheurebe

In guess the variety game, this is a ripper with which to bamboozle your friends at a dinner party. Unless someone has a MW, it may prove an interesting and entertaining exercise.

Although little is planted in Australia, the answer is Scheurebe, a German variety that is a crossing between Riesling (its father) and a wild grape vine called Buketttraube - translated in English as bouquet grape. According to Florian Boehm, Cellar Door Manager at Margaret River's Wills Domain Winery, "Buketttraube is not grown anymore in Germany. The crossing was created by Dr. Scheu where its name comes from. Rebe is the German word for vine."

When we think of Margaret River, mainstream varieties tend to come to mind. Located in the sub-region of Yallingup, the multi-award winning Wills Domain is owned by the Haunold Family whose German background has had long winemaking traditions since the 1300’s, mentions Boehm. He explains further: "Due to this background Darren Haunold decided he would like to introduce a new German variety to the region. There is an area in the vineyards which is too damp for red varieties but it’s a great terroir for Scheurebe which likes these conditions."  

A widely repeated quotation about 'Scheu' as it is referred to, had me amused and thought I'd share it even if its relationship to Riesling brings up some family issues. In my opinion, more of a wild child !

Scheurebe is Riesling just after it read the Kama Sutra. Put another way, Scheu is what Riesling would be if Riesling were a transvestite. If Riesling expresses all that is Noble and Good, Scheu offers all that is Dirty and Fun. It is Riesling's evil, horny twin.

"The 2014 is the second vintage," Boehm continues "so it’s very interesting for us how great it performs here in Margaret River with its distinctive aromas, pretty floral nose and acidity, which is not as high as in Riesling."

Bright silvery straw in colour. Stunningly translucent. An extra '+' to the score for this quality. 
Very perfumy with red current, gooseberry, wild grassy herbs and orange blossom notes. 
Think of a cross between Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc and you have the aromatics of the 'Scheu.'   

There is an expressive palate of green apple, honeysuckle, minerality and blood orange notes. Great balance overall. Mouth watering, juicy and subtle tannins. Off-dry, fresh and bright with a lingering finish of pink grapefruit. 

Attractively presented in a brown bottle no less. Aromatic, delicious and such a great find. 

Postscript. Wills Domain believes that it is the only producer of Scheurebe in Australia at present.



Source: Sample. ABV: 12.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $29.00. Rating: 92+ Points.

Website: http://www.willsdomain.com.au/

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2010 Clan Del Sud Green Man Malvasia

The name Clan Del Sud is translated as 'Clan/Family of the South' explained vineyard owner Mark Lewis whose maternal family line extends back some 600 years in southern Italy. It is in recognition of the proud and successful heritage of the Cocozza family throughout history that he continued, was behind the name. 

The Cocozza family has adopted the ancient myth of the Green Man for their wine labels, a symbol of life and rebirth found in vegetation, the natural plant world and to the earth itself. It is a metaphor continued in their philosophy and to their vineyard practices, the vines of which are located on the high, north-facing side of Mt. Samaria in Central Victoria. Lewis described that they had been members of Biodynamic Agriculture Australia for 12 years and hoped to transition to certification in the near future as part of their holistic approach to the environment. 


Malvasia has been identified as the name of an ancient family of grapes not dissimilar to the Muscat family. Its origins stretch back 2000 years to it is believed, Greece and historically was grown throughout Mediterranean countries, particularly in Italy where it flourishes today under a variety of names or clones and styles.  
The variety is not that extensively grown here in Oz - in blends more than straight varietals - and I was surprised to learn that double the number of Greco De Tufo vines existed here last year than Malvasia vines ! 
I do remember some years ago a Riesling/Malvasia blend from the erstwhile Mornington Peninsula winery Ermes Estate. Chalmers blend Malvasia Istriana with Picolit to produce a Passito style dessert wine that is common in Italy. 


The 2010 Green Man Malvasia won a Gold Medal at the 2011 Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show and the Trophy: Chairman's "Wine To Watch" (Chief of Judges Max Allen) in its short career. The dry grown Malvasia Istriana grapes from which this wine is made, had only been harvested twenty months earlier with half fermented in stainless steel, the balance in old oak barrels. Simon Steele at Yarra Valley's Medhurst Wines is the winemaker says Lewis and "he is eager to work with us on the Italian varietals we grow" that include both white and red varieties. 

In the glass the old Green Man displays pale straw colours with a greenish tinge. After some breathing, aromas of bosc pear, white flowers, thyme and honey notes. Some hints of roasted almond and baking bread, which was interesting. It is fresh, warm and mouth-watering.

Round and richly textured in taste with nutty, dry herb and peach characteristics backed up by good acid and a mineral backbone. Appealing grapefruit citrus and honey finish. Savoury with some phenolic grip to it. Light to medium-bodied wine with a viscous, almost oily quality. Shows loads of heart and character, an alluring complexity and basically, it's such great drinking. Age has certainly not wearied this Malvasia and let's hope there's more stand alone varietals like this one in future years. Excellent. 







Source: Sample. ABV: 13.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $36.00. Rating: 92+ Points.

Website: http://www.clandelsud.com.au/index.html

2014 Clan Del Sud Green Man Malvasia

Quite different to the 2010 Green Man, the 2014 vintage is more fresh and fruity. Owner Mark Lewis explained that the 2014 Malvasia was picked in late March last year, pressed and cold settled, fermented and aged in old oak for about 8 months, before being bottled in December.

Pale straw yellow in the glass with tinges of green.
Subtle aromas of apricot, dried herbs and lime. Some wet rock components interestingly to this Malvasia Istriana. 
Soft and powdery on entry with a mid-palate marked by apricot and orange peel. A lime backbone supports a brisk mineral component throughout. A dry, light- to medium-bodied wine with fresh citrus notes, lean, spicy and lively. Soft tannins on a seamlessly smooth palate impress. Bursting with heart, appeal and drinkability. 
Refreshing finish to what is an underrated variety that hopefully we will see more of in the future.

The variety's history is quite intriguing. The origins of Malvasia Istriana appear at Monemvasia on the Greek Peloponnese Peninsula around the Middle Ages. From there, Venetian seafarers and traders transported cuttings to most parts of the Mediterranean and as far as the Canary Islands and the Istrian Peninsula - part of modern day Croatia and Slovenia -  under the name Monemvasia. Such was its reputation, it was referred to in recent documentation as the Chardonnay of the Middle Ages. The variety later became Italianized to Malvasia and today is predominantly cultivated in Italy's Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. 
There are one or two other competing theories, most notable of which was that the returning Crusaders brought back cuttings with them to Venice from Constantinopoli in the early 1200's from where it spread and flourished in north-east Italy. As with all grape varieties, there is a story or stories to tell that gives some perspective to the wines we enjoy today. 



Source: Sample. ABV: 13.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $36.00. Rating: 91 Points.

Website: http://www.clandelsud.com.au/index.html

2014 White Rock Vineyard Dornfelder

The White Rock Dornfelder is Australia's first release of this dark-berried grape originally created in 1955 from a crossing of the German varieties Helfensteiner and Heroldrebe, both of whom were crossings themselves and which begs the question. Was the variety double-crossed into existence ?

Seriously, released onto the market in 1979 in presumably West Germany, the variety accounts for nearly 10 percent of total vineyard surface area there, second only to Pinot Noir in the red wine grape variety stakes.

Australia's only plantings are at the boutique family-owned White Rock Vineyard situated at Kimberley, north-west Tasmania where conditions are similar to Germany and where there is not a lot of leeway to ripen Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon according to owner Phil Dolan. "I planted the Dornfelder because I had heard that it ripens the same time as Pinot noir so would be a good alternative red variety for Tasmania" he stated. He was not to realise how good when it took out a gold medal and the overall trophy for Best Other Red at the 2014 International Cool Climate Wine Show.

Dolan continued. "The cuttings came from the Riverland Vine Improvement Association and they only had 100 vines, most of which have been pulled out because of lack of interest." 
He went on to mention that their winemaker, Alain Rousseau of Frogmore Creek is doing a great job with it. "I couldn't find anyone to make it as it was such a small crop but Alain said, "Oh, that's new. I'll do it."

He used carbonic maceration to get fruitiness and aged it in oak to add complexity. About 15% Pinot Noir is added for that extra edge, however sales are restricted but mixed cases can be done, Dolan explained.

In the glass the wine is a dense opaque ruby purple in colour due to the grape's red pulp. Floral aromas with blueberry, pepper and smokey notes on the nose. The aromas are fresh and slightly sweet.
There are some brooding elements to the Dornfelder with flavours of tart dark cherry, plum and cloves on the palate supported by smooth tannins and a soft lively acidity. Overall, good depth of flavour and structure to this medium-bodied wine. Velvety, rich textural mouthfeel that flows onto a white peppery finish. 

There's a well-crafted balance of fruit, oak and acid to this wine and it's easy and satisfying to drink. A real privilege to try Australia's first release of what could be a promising variety in our cooler climate wine regions. Excellent.

Source: Sample. ABV: 13.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $36.00. Rating: 91 Points. Website: http://www.whiterockvineyard.com/

2011 Steels Creek Estate Colombard

Traditionally grown for distilling into Cognac and Armagnac, Colombard is the love child of that old philandering grape Gouais Blanc and Chenin Blanc and believed to have originated in the Charente region in south-west France. This white variety has never had the mantle of greatness attached to it although its expansion in California has risen recently and the French are now producing reasonable varietal releases from it.

Australia's Murray Darling and Riverina regions use the variety predominantly in the production of blended 'cardboard handbag' wines. Primo Estate's La Biondina is the atypical exception to that trend. There are other examples where its high acid levels help in warmer climates. Steels Creek Estate in the cool Yarra Valley and situated in a picturesque woody nook has grown Colombard since 1981 and is unique in the region amongst the largely mainstream varieties there.

It is interesting how owner and winemaker Simon Peirce tells the story about how he got the Colombard in the first place. The winery was supposed to get Riesling from the nursery in Gol Gol but was sent Colombard vines mistakenly instead, he recalls. Years of persistence and struggle with the vigour of the vines, reducing bud numbers and fruit thinning to enable satisfactory ripening has according to Peirce, helped produce a decent wine with a loyal following. 

It's a white to pale gold colour with an utterly intriguing bouquet of leaf, seaweed, rubber glove and citrus notes. 
Palate is dry, minerally, light-bodied and texturally smooth. There's tropical fruit notes, guava in particular and a subtle citrus kick at the tail end. Crisp and refreshing but I had to mark the quick exit the Colombard took at the finish. A little more fuller and longer and this really would be a ripper wine. 

Source: Winery Purchase. ABV: 11.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $20.00. Rating: 88 Points.

Website: http://www.steelsckestate.com.au/index.html

2013 Ceravolo Estate Cortese D'Ashton

Awarded a Gold Medal for Best White Wine and Best White Italian Wine at the 2013 Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show and a Bronze Medal at the 2013 Australian Small Winemakers Show, the grapes for the Ceravolo Estate Cortese are the only ones planted in South Australia and one of only two plantings of this rare Piedmont variety in Australia.

Planted in 2010 the Cortese grows at 500 metres in the cool Adelaide Hills. The grapes from a single, low-yielding estate vineyard are fermented in stainless steel. The wine has already had some rave reviews overseas, particularly at the VinItaly Exhibition last year where according to winemaker Joe Ceravolo the Piedmontese could not believe what they were tasting, the prominent white flower aromatics of the variety so similar to their own acclaimed Cortese di Gavi DOCG. 

This is a clear straw yellow coloured wine. Offers lifted aromas of a grassy field, lily of the valley perfume, green apple and yellow plum.

Moderate acidity and light to medium body. Lime, beeswax and honeydew palate, some minerality and fine tannins. Slightly tart edges but smooth in the main. Has that dry Italian steely savouriness that will make it ideal with food. Elegant and impressive.

Source: Sample. ABV: 11.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $22.00. Rating: 91 Points.

Website: http://www.ceravolo.com.au./

2014 Ceravolo Estate Sangiovese Rosé

Made from the first-run juice of the Ceravolo Estate's award-winning Adelaide Plains Sangiovese, this rosé delivers on all varietal fronts.

Clear dark pink, fuchsia colour in the glass. 
The nose is all strawberry, subtle sour black cherry and some orange peel complemented by cinnamon and rose petal nuances. 

The palate initially attacked with medium sweet berry fruits reminiscent of raspberry lollies before settling to be dry and crisp. Not cloying in any way. The mid-palate offered vibrant pomegranate, cranberry and cinnamon flavours refreshed by a nice line of acid.

Creamy smooth texture and light bodied. Dry to medium sweet summer berry flavours overall with soft tannins lead to an elongated finish. A bright, well made wine that is lovely to drink. 

Source: Sample. ABV: 13.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $18.00. Rating: 89 Points.

Website: http://www.ceravolo.com.au./

2014 Woods Crampton Barossa Valley Pedro

Predominantly Bonvedro with splashes of Graciano and Tempranillo, this Iberian-inspired blend tends to lean on the 'joven' style, more light than medium-bodied. Naturally fermented, 100% whole bunch pressed with bugger all chemicals added, as the back label states. I had to include that photo as the Pedro seems to reflect from what I've gleaned, the character of its dynamic winemakers Aaron Woods and Nicholas Crampton: likeable, easygoing and unconventional.  

Ruby red to a light purple colour. Aromas of blueberry, raspberry and notes of earth and violet. Juicy blackberry, blueberry and exotic spice notes on the palate are balanced by refreshing acidity. There's a smooth textural feel about this wine with some crunch and grip too. Fine lingering spicy tannins with white peppery nuances at the tail end leaves the finish satisfying. Good slightly chilled as well. 



This is a youthful, flavoursome, drink now blend that would be ideal with chorizo and seafood paella. An interesting take that bucks the traditional blends out of the Valley. Enjoyable and recommended.

Source: Sample. ABV: 13.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $22.00. Rating: 92 Points.

Wholesaler: Fourth Wave Wine -  http://fourthwavewine.com.au/

Website: http://woods-crampton.com.au/

2013 Woods Crampton Johns Vineyard Barossa Valley Bonvedro

Bonvedro is a red grape variety grown in Portugal as Bomvedro and in north-eastern Spain under the name Cuatendra. There is also some suggestion that this rare grape exists in France and northern Italy.

Recent DNA testing revealed that seventy year old vines masquerading as Carignan in the Barossa Valley were in fact the Bonvedro variety, adding yet another intriguing episode to Australia's Mistaken Grapes chronicle. How the variety originally got to the Valley is anyone's guess but evidence suggests that cuttings may have arrived in the colonies in the large James Busby collection. But the confusion with Carignan appeared to lay because of certain similarities between the two varieties.

The dynamic crew of Aaron Woods and Nicholas Crampton produce the only 100% varietal Bonvedro in Australia from a single dry grown vineyard in the Valley's Light Pass sub-region. 

Dark ruby red colour in the glass. Offers up an intense perfume of sweet dark red fruits, spicy qualities with some twig and smokey notes. Light to medium-bodied red wine. Supple in the mouthfeel. Well-balanced acidity and light chalky tannins that integrate into a spicy, slightly bitter palate composed of blackberry, black olive and dark chocolate.

An Interesting, complex and well worth exploring this obscure wine. As a summer red, it tastes just as good slightly chilled. A great find.

Source: Sample. ABV: 14.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $30.00. Rating: 92 Points.

Wholesaler: Fourth Wave Wine - http://fourthwavewine.com.au/

Website: http://woods-crampton.com.au/

2012 Devil's Lair Dance with the Devil Sauvignon Blanc Chenin Blanc

Dance With The Devil is a sub-range of Margaret River winery Devil's Lair portfolio. This white is a creative blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Chenin Blanc, varieties that you don't usually see together. After stainless steel maturation, both were given four months in French oak to add complexity and distinctiveness.

Very pale straw with greenish hue colouring. Lifted green apple, citrus, nutty and tropical fruit salad aromas present. 
Palate is similar with lychee, gooseberry and passionfruit notes held by zesty acidity and some crunchy, flinty tannins. 
It's a well balanced, light-bodied wine with a long and refreshing finish combining the best qualities of both individual parts but there's something missing here that leaves you unsatisfied. 

I wouldn't buy it again, it's far too expensive for what you get. Nevertheless, it's an excellent score for an everyday quaffer. 

Source: Retail Purchase. ABV: 12.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $24.99. Rating: 88 Points.

Website: http://www.devils-lair.com/

2013 Sorrenberg Vineyards Beechworth Gamay

Sorrenberg is a biodynamic, boutique 2.5 hectare vineyard and winery located outside Beechworth at the foothills of the Great Diving Range in north-east Victoria. Owned by Barry and Jan Morey, the vineyard dates from the mid-1980's with the first vintage of Gamay brought out in 1989.

Lauded as a benchmark Australian style, the Gamay produced at Sorrenberg is said to be more Burgundian in style than Beaujolais with a 10% Pinot Noir component adding complexity and a perfect edge.

The 2013 Gamay is a purple ruby hue in the glass, darker than I'd thought it would be. Black cherry, spice, leather and earthen aromas.
It's fruity upon entry then settles down to be savoury with notes of mushroom, soy and soil. A peppery, earthy and fleshy red fruit palate give it a warm, luscious mouthfeel. Medium-bodied with great balance between the fruit, its vibrant acid and supple tannins. Lingering savoury finish of dark chocolate adds to the overall deliciousness.


I hazard a guess that the Sorrenberg Gamay would match the very best grand 'crus' the Beaujolais region could offer or any other region for that matter.

A wine that is confident of its cult status. Complex, seductive and engaging.
Remarkable. Highly Recommended.

Source: Gift. ABV: 13.2%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $42.00 (Approx). Rating: 95 Points.

Website: http://www.sorrenberg.com/

2011 Oak Works Pinotage

A problematic reputation has appeared to dog Pinotage over the years, its high yields, burnt rubber and acetone flavours making generally unremarkable wines. I didn't know what to believe but it helped like most things, having an open mind. It's South Africa's signature variety, a Pinot Noir and Cinsault marriage back in 1925 designed to enhance the flavours of Pinot Noir with the yields of Cinsault. In terms of red varieties planted there, it is second only to Cabernet Sauvignon. 

The variety is still in its early days in Australia with only a few wineries, amongst them Oak Works in the Riverland Region producing anything while New Zealand has had a far longer relationship with it. Fourteen months in oak has added complexity to this mid-weight 2009 red.  

It is dark ruby, an almost purple colour in the glass.There are moderately intense flowery forest floor, earth and briary aromatics going on with hints of banana peel and gamey bacon.  
Rolling seamlessly over the palate were spicy plum fruit, pepper and cherry sauce flavours. These were underpinned by bold, structured smokey meat flavours and subtle tannins. A dry, texturally smooth and polished palate. Medium heat peaks mid-palate leading to what is a lingering sweet spice finish. Carries the heat fairly well otherwise.

This is a well-structured wine with bold Shiraz-type flavours that I found intriguing. It came out punching on the second night's drinking, boosting the score to the magic ninety. Well worth a try if you want an alternative to Shiraz. Very Good.

Source: Sample. ABV: 13.5%. Closure: Cork. Price: $20.00. Rating: 90 Points.

Website: http://www.riverlandwine.com.au/wine-of-the-riverland/the-wineries/16-oak-works-wines.html