2007 Lyre Bird Hill Gewürztraminer

The South Gippsland Region has a climate and diversity comparable to Burgundy and similarly excels in the production of delicate versions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Other varieties such as Viognier, Malbec and Gewürztraminer crop up in the area too adding interest to that diversity and to this underrated part of Victoria's winescape.

The Lyre Bird Hill Winery established in 1986 is situated on the Koonwarra-Inverloch Road Koonwarra amongst picturesque rolling dairy country. The 2007 Gewürztraminer is from estate grown fruit but according to winemaker Owen Schmidt, past vintages have been supplemented by fruit from the Yarra Valley because of poor yields.   

Straw yellow colour. Flamboyant bouquet of lychee, tart citrus, candied musk and rose petals. Everything you'd expect. Segues to some sweetness upon entry but flinty and spicy in the main. An off dry style, apricot, mango, cinnamon, a hint of honeyed sweetness with an oily texture, nice concentrated elements reflecting bottle age. The finish however had a sour to bitter taste that was unpleasant, interestingly 

dissipating the following evening. Good to start off but a letdown in the end.

Source: Winery Purchase. Alcohol: 12.2%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $15.00. Rating: 85 Points.
Website: http://www.lyrebirdhill.com.au/index.php

2012 Delatite Deadman’s Hill Gewürztraminer

The Delatite Deadman's Hill Gewürztraminer has been a value play on the Australian wine market and considered one of our finest for many years now. Generally Gewürztraminer is a challenging variety to sell let alone to pronounce and to the senses, well, punters either love it or loathe it, much like a particular AFL club and its belligerent supporters.  

The grapes for this Gewürz go back to the first variety to be planted at Delatite's Upper Goulburn Region vineyards after its establishment in 1982. Dry grown, hand-picked and whole bunch pressed, it reflects the winery's high altitude, biodynamic terroir and their emphasis upon doing cool-climate aromatic white wines well.   

Bright straw colour with a water-like hue. Expect the heady and that's what you get. Candied musk, tight lychee and fragrant rose petal and frangipani aromas leap out of the glass. 

A soft, semi-sweet entry. The palate delivers juicy, off-dry, spicy tropical fruit flavours, cloves and ginger. Medium bodied and well-balanced with a zesty acid backbone and a crisp finish. There is a lingering aftertaste of cloves, lime pith and some flint rock. 

Overall, a restrained, delicate style. The aromatics are there but the palate has some ways to go. I'm just not feeling it yet. Not as concentrated as I thought it would be but put that down to youth. Will develop points with ageing, as we all do. A solid, consistently well made wine that you can rely on to deliver varietal expression.

Source: Retail. Alcohol: 13.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $19.00. Rating: 90 Points.