Traditionally grown for distilling into Cognac and Armagnac, Colombard is the love child of that old philandering grape Gouais Blanc and Chenin Blanc and believed to have originated in the Charente region in south-west France. This white variety has never had the mantle of greatness attached to it although its expansion in California has risen recently and the French are now producing reasonable varietal releases from it.
Australia's Murray Darling and Riverina regions use the variety predominantly in the production of blended 'cardboard handbag' wines. Primo Estate's La Biondina is the atypical exception to that trend. There are other examples where its high acid levels help in warmer climates. Steels Creek Estate in the cool Yarra Valley and situated in a picturesque woody nook has grown Colombard since 1981 and is unique in the region amongst the largely mainstream varieties there.
It is interesting how owner and winemaker Simon Peirce tells the story about how he got the Colombard in the first place. The winery was supposed to get Riesling from the nursery in Gol Gol but was sent Colombard vines mistakenly instead, he recalls. Years of persistence and struggle with the vigour of the vines, reducing bud numbers and fruit thinning to enable satisfactory ripening has according to Peirce, helped produce a decent wine with a loyal following.
It's a white to pale gold colour with an utterly intriguing bouquet of leaf, seaweed, rubber glove and citrus notes.
Palate is dry, minerally, light-bodied and texturally smooth. There's tropical fruit notes, guava in particular and a subtle citrus kick at the tail end. Crisp and refreshing but I had to mark the quick exit the Colombard took at the finish. A little more fuller and longer and this really would be a ripper wine.
Source: Winery Purchase. ABV: 11.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $20.00. Rating: 88 Points.
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