2006 Sailors Falls Estate Pinot Gris

Nestled in the undulating hills near Daylesford north of Victoria's Macedon wine region, Sailors Falls Estate is a boutique family owned winery with an attractive bed and breakfast on the property.

The 1.2 acres under vines contain pinot gris, pinot noir and small amounts of gewurztraminer that are all dry grown according to contract winemaker Owen Latta at Eastern Peake Winery near Ballarat. The pinot gris itself has been produced at the Eastern Peake Winery since 2004.

Pinot gris and its Italian counterpart pinot grigio were rare grapes in Australia 15 years ago. Now however, both are no longer officially considered alternative grape varieties and are ineligible for the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show, such is their mainstream status.

This pale straw green cool climate wine exhibits pear and blossom aromatics. Honey, cinnamon and juicy pear enliven the dry lingering minerality and acidity of the palate.

It opened to reveal that it had not lost any of the honeyed, spicy, almost peppery characteristics that come with age in the bottle. A delicious white to take to your favourite Asian restaurant.

Pinot Gris tends to be consumed as a young wine and I was quietly surprised that this had cellared so well.

Source: Winery Purchase. Rating: 86+Points. Website: www.sailorsfallsestate.com.au

2008 Galafrey Muller Mount Barker Muller Thurgau

Muller Thurgau is a rare white grape on the Australian wine landscape, grown only in cooler regions such as Tasmania, the Snowy Mountains zone, Mudgee and Mount Barker in Western Australia's Great Southern Wine Region.

We all remember the German wine Liebfraumilch from our younger drinking years? You wouldn't want to or can't? Well, that was the Muller Thurgau grape in that watershed swill. Thank Bacchus and Dionysus things have changed for the better, that's all I've got to say!

The Muller Thurgau variety has been grown at the family-owned Galafrey Winery since its establishment in 1977, the oldest in the Mount Barker Region. Winemaker Kim Tyrer says that Mount Barker's cool climate made Muller Thurgau good to grow and popular owing to its uniqueness and approachability with food.

First bred by botanist Professor Hermann Muller from Thurgau, Switzerland in 1882, it was originally thought to be a cross between Riesling and the French table grape Silvaner. The grape was named after him in 1913. However, first botanical then only recent genetic analysis has discovered that it was a hybrid of Riesling and the obscure Madeleine Royale grape and not the original hybridised grapes. Also known as Rivaner, Muller Thurgau is believed to be the oldest successful new breed to be disseminated throughout the world.

The grape is widely grown throughout central and Eastern Europe but it was in Germany and England of all places, where the grape was responsible for kick-starting the redevelopment of each country's post war wine industry.

The Galafrey Muller is not a complex wine, made more for its quaffability than for anything else. It lacks the distinctive bouquet and acid associated with Riesling yet does have its own varietal character.

In the glass it is pale yellow in colour with musky, apple and nutmeg aromas predominating on the nose. Citrus and passionfruit notes on the palate with a mild acid backbone make this an easy dry medium bodied wine to drink with light fare.

A unique, enjoyable and somewhat nerdy variety to take as an alternative white wine to impress or confuse your friends !

Source: Retail Purchase. Rating: 86 Points. Website: www.galafreywines.com.au

2007 Chambers Rosewood Vineyards Roussanne

Roussanne originates from the Northern Rhone valley in France and with marsanne and viognier makes up the trifecta of major white wines in this region. All three have the potential for age-worthiness.

It is one of the varieties permitted in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage and Saint-Joseph DOCs.

Like a chardonnay, Roussanne is golden in colour. It is interesting to note however that when mature, the grapes acquire a characteristic pinkish-brown colour which is the reason for the name of the strain.

This wine has pear and golden apples on the aromatics with a full bodied, honey and lemon zest component on the palate. An oily texture and smokey notes boost the entire fruit profile.

The non-irrigated Roussanne vines, many of which are over eighty years old at the Rosewood Vineyards in Rutherglen, produce low yields with wonderfully concentrated and unctuous flavours.

Australian winemakers do things their own way and some make Roussanne as a stand alone varietal wine while others blend it with Marsanne and/or Viognier.

Drinking well now and would go well with a variety of seafood or vegetarian dishes. 

Source: Winery Purchase. Rating: 87 Points. Website: www.rutherglenvic.com/wineries/winery

2008 Mt. Franklin Estate Daylesford Dolcetto

The vineyard of this family run business near Daylesford in central Victoria is planted on volcanic soil left behind after the eruption of Mt. Franklin about five million years ago. According to the winery website, the volcanic soils offer the vineyard a mixture of rich dark fertile soil peppered with mineral rich volcanic rock.

The Daylesford Wine Region has its own unique identity even though theoretically, it is part of the wider Macedon Ranges Wine Region to the south-east. In viticulture terms, it is a cool/cold climate region with some parts at 800 metres. Grape growing and wine making go back to the 1850's with the settlement of migrants from northern Italy who were escaping the yoke of Austrian occupation and Italian-speaking Swiss migrants from the Ticino canton in Switzerland who were fleeing poverty and rural deprivation.

Italian grape varieties such as Arneis, Nebbiolo, Pinot Grigio and Dolcetto reflected that early heritage in the district. To this present day, a wonderful diversity of architecture and institutions survive from that colonial and multicultural era.

The Dolcetto grape variety predominantly grown in Piedmonte in Northern Italy produces a finely flavoured dry red wine and not the sweet wine as its name, translated as 'little sweet one', implies. Unfortunately, in Australia Dolcetto still appears to suffer from that perception hanging around its neck. However, it is claimed that Australia does have the oldest current plantings of Dolcetto with vines dating back to the 1860's. One could reasonably assert that these vines may well exist in the Daylesford Wine Region.

Twelve months maturation in oak barrels has produced a finely balanced, medium-bodied wine with soft tannins, low acidity and a persist, opulent berry flavour. Deep purple in colour, this Dolcetto is stunning to the eye.

Intense spicy fruit, plum, aniseed notes and almonds on the nose take your breath away. The rich volcanic soils must have contributed in making this wine such a de-licious fruit bomb.The only caveat is that Dolcetto should be consumed while young. Why would you want to cellar this mouthwatering libation anyway and allow the youthful fruit flavours to fade?

Dolcetto can be enjoyed at room temperature while slightly chilled, gives the wine another dimension. Pairs well with Italian food and even some Asian dishes. 

Source: Winery Sample. Rating: 90+ Points. Website: www.mtfranklinestate.com.au

2010 Turkey Flat Vineyards Rosé

Rose has well and truly come in from the cold and Turkey Flat has been in the vanguard of the revolution. Like Riesling some years ago, rose did not enjoy a good reputation mainly because it was associated with wines that had a sweet cordial type nature.

From vineyards that date to the mid-1800's, Turkey Flat has some of the world's oldest shiraz grapes. The winery is located at Tanunda in South Australia's Barossa Valley.

The grape varieties that go to make this reliably favourite and unique rose wine are grenache and shiraz with smaller amounts of cabernet sauvignon and the Italian variety, dolcetto.

A vibrant pink/crimson in the glass, fragrant aromas of Turkish delight, perfume, herbs and red berries greet the nose. The palate is dry, crisp and well balanced with soft tannins and hints of spice and musk.

I'm a convert to the rose revolution that at present is justifiably gaining wide popularity and appears to know no end. With very few if any rules that regulate its production, rose wine can be made from a variety of red grapes. As long as rose retains some sweetness on the aromatics and a drier, more savoury palate with hints of spice, there will be no dissidents!

An engaging and quaffable wine that is very refreshing. Serve it slightly chilled and enjoy during the warmer months with spicy foods or just on its own. 

Source: Retail Purchase. Rating: 88 Points. Website: www.turkeyflat.com.au

1989 Henschke Hill of Grace

When you ask one friend to dine, give him your best wine! When you ask two, the second best will do! 
- Henry Wadsworth Longfellow.

The Henschke Hill of Grace had to be included from the cellar as it is renown as one of Australia's most iconic wines. Made from 100% Shiraz grapes from pre-phylloxera material brought from Europe by early settlers in the mid 1800's, it is grown in the cool climate of South Australia's Eden Valley Wine Region.

Crimson/brick-red in appearance with a sweet, earthy nose. Tar, leather, green-bean, some vanillin oak, plum jam and violets complete the delightful aromatics.

The palate had sweet, spicy and jammy characters, was slightly sappy with rich chocolate, violets and a chewy fine grained tannins on the mid-palate. Powerful yet full of finesse. Very well balanced and complex. No oak monsters reside in this stunning example of classic Australian wine.

The 1989 Hill of Grace held up exceptionally well, presenting fantastic secondary fruits and tannin balance leading to a long finish. If you do decide to enjoy older wines such as this revered one, I would suggest decanting a few hours before hand to enable the wine to open up thereby maximising enjoyment and pleasure.

Remember, you are not just tasting and drinking the wine itself, but experiencing history, geography, geology, winemaking techniques and even the winemaker's psychology in the glass!

The 1989 vintage has been unavailable at the cellar door for some time, but you may be able to obtain it from wine auction houses such as Langton's.

The vintage itself in 1989 was described as great with average to good yields, giving it a comparative vintage rating of 5/7. 

Source: The Cellar. Rating: 94 Points. Website: http://henschke.com.au/

2004 Moorabool Ridge Semillon

The Geelong Wine Industry dates back to the early 1840's when Swiss migrants planted vineyards in the local Barrabool Hills. They arrived with the knowledge and experience of viticulture and the region burgeoned after the 1850's gold rush to become one of the largest and most important wine-growing centres in colonial Victoria. 

That prosperity was savaged when the dreaded phylloxera louse decimated vineyards in 1875 leading to the death knell of the region's wine industry. That industry was reborn approximately a century later with plantings established in the historic Moorabool Valley sub-region of Geelong with the boutique family Moorabool Ridge winery itself established in 1990. 

The winery's location low down in the corner of a bank of the fertile Moorabool River and its unique micro climate suited the planting of Semillon, a variety rare to this region of Victoria.

Semillon is a versatile white grape variety that has had a history of producing good wines over long periods. It has had a remarkable history in Europe and while not considered an alternative variety in Australia, we have somewhat undervalued that status. Moorabool Ridge owner Tim Harrop says "It is strange, it remains hard to sell to bottle shops, they say people do not buy Semillon, its poorly understood and there are few good examples of it. Pubs won't take it for the same reason."  

He continues "I hoped we could produce something special that would save us from chasing the latest fashion in whites. Second I needed a variety I could blend with Chardonnay, would perform as a straight varietal and could produce a high quality late picked noble effected desert wine. Hence a range of market points with one variety." 
According to Harrop many people were sceptical at first about both the choice of variety and the chances of selling both the grapes and the wines but opinion has changed as have the quality of grapes and wines.

Harrop reflects "Having to try my own produce I was a first surprised and then entranced by it. It is the red wine drinkers white. Why? It has complexity, depth and a complex changing character that is so typical of reds and seldom found in whites. It has become even more intense and complex as it has aged. I have sampled it with Hunter, SA and WA Semillons and it is heavier and more complex than all of them and I think that it must be the cooler climate and longer ripening season we have."

The 2004 Semillon is an attractive pale gold in colour. Floral scents compliment lifted lemon and honey aromas. Some burnt toast nuances in there too. The complex palate is dry, zesty and minerally with lemon and honey throughout. A medium bodied and fruit-driven wine that is not sweet by any means. Has a long clean citrus aftertaste. Smooth, almost oily texture and very easy to drink. Sure to have the oomph to still go another few years. A real find.

Source: Winery Purchase. Rating: 92 Points. Website: http://www.mooraboolvalley.com.au/ridge

2008 Lost Valley Winery Cortese

The white Cortese variety grows predominantly in the Gavi DOCG region of Piedmont in Italy's north west with smaller plantings in nearby Lombardy as well as the DOC regions of Veneto. It is the grape used in the renowned Gavi di Gavi wine. Its history in Piedmont dates from the mid-seventeenth century, a relative newcomer of a grape in comparison to some other varieties that are as old as Methuselah.   

The boutique Lost Valley Winery in the Upper Goulburn Region of Victoria's Central Highlands has the only planting of this premium variety in Australia but more remarkably, the only outside its traditional growing region in Italy. The 1.5 hectares of Cortese vines have seen vintages since 2000, the original ones imported from Italy by the winery's founder. The thinking was to find the most advantageous terroir best suited to the growth of this rare Italian varietal specifically matching the same characteristics of the Piedmont region.  
      

This wine comes to the table with a certain mystique, its cult status and acclaim both in domestic and international industry circles seemingly giving the Cortese that 'a 100+ wines to try before you die' type reputation. I had known of it for some time but was put off by its price tag so when the discount fairy came calling from a local outlet ...

While I didn't get too carried away by the hype, it was nevertheless an enjoyable drink. Pale straw yellow and golden green hues in the glass. Restrained aromas of nashi pear, apples and passionfruit. There are spicy and nutty nuances there too but a smokey metallic component in the background left me somewhat perplexed. The light to medium palate was delicate and dry with a great mouthfeel throughout of peach, apricot, lemon and white asparagus. A subdued honeyed and spice flavour carries to the finish. Would pair well with seafood and white meat dishes and could cellar easily another 5 years. This is a charismatic and unique Australian wine that does deserve its kudos.  

Source: Retail Purchase. Rating: 90+ Points. Website: http://www.lostvalleywinery.com/   
   

2004 Chambers Rosewood Vineyards Gouais

Established in 1858 by William Chambers and now operated by fifth generation winemakers William and son Stephen Chambers. Rosewood has one of the very few commercial crops of this unique grape variety in the world. Apart from reported plantings in Bordeaux and Valais Switzerland, Chambers Rosewood in Rutherglen may well be the custodian of this variety in the world at present. 

Gouais or Gouais Blanc is a white grape variety that is seldom grown today but was important as the ancestor of many traditional French and German grape varieties. In 1999 researchers identified Gouais as a parent plant of a number of important varieties including Riesling, Chardonnay and Gamay and more recently have identified over 80 outstanding offsprings. A philandering grape variety ! The name Gouais derives from the old French adjective ‘gou’, a term of derision befitting its traditional status as the grape of the peasants rather than of the nobility who had more pressing matters to deal with at the time.  
It is comforting to know that the peasants were giving more than just their heads to the nobles !

Gouais is believed to have been brought in by the Romans on their westward conquests and known to have been widely planted in central and northeastern France in Medieval times before it fell victim to the Phylloxera blight of the mid-19th century.

This is a fascinatingly rare wine variety, delightfully fresh and slightly zesty with a subtle herbal aroma. Lemon characters can be picked up on the elegant palate and combine well with the soft oak flavours. Nice acidity. A slight resemblance to chardonnay on the palate. This is a good balanced wine with a clean, crisp finish. Goes well with asparagus dishes. 

Source: Winery Purchase. Rating: 88 Points. Website: www.rutherglenvic.com/wineries/winery

2008 Roundstone Yarra Valley Gamay

The Roundstone Winery in Victoria's picturesque Yarra Valley held special memories for many people.

Not only did Roundstone produce outstanding cool climate wines but the creativity and consistency of the French provincial/Mediterranean-inspired food served in the small rustic restaurant was always a pleasure to experience.

Nestled in the Dixon's Creek/Steels Creek sub-region, it had a glorious aspect overlooking vines, a lake and rolling green countryside to the north.

Tragically, the Roundstone Winery and many of its vines were destroyed in the Black Saturday bushfires in February 2009. It was a great tragedy and a shock to many people who enjoyed the wine and food experience, the warm hospitality of its staff and the winery's peaceful surrounds.

However some vines did survive, one of which was the small Gamay plot. I have the pleasure to review the 2008 Roundstone Gamay in addition to paying tribute to this lost piece of the Yarra Valley in my first blog posting.

Gamay is a red grape variety that originates from Beaujolais in Southern Burgundy and is responsible for the light-bodied, high acid and low tannic Beaujolais wines. Gamay is a cross between the region's great red variety Pinot Noir and an ancient white variety Gouais Blanc. In Australia, the Gamay grape is grown in a variety of regions up and down the east coast with smaller plantings elsewhere. It produces versatile wines that go with a diverse range of foods.

Planted back in 1998, the Gamay variety at Roundstone was said to be well suited to the Yarra Valley environment. The 2008 produced a wine with a fruity bouquet of banana, raspberry and coconut with a medium-bodied black cherry, blackcurrant, slightly peppery palate. It was a really lovely, enjoyable wine that is drinking beautifully now.

It can be served at room temperature but there is a nicer dimension to it when slightly chilled especially during the warmer months of the year. 

If you do not have any Roundstone wines in your cellar, it would be nigh on impossible to find any available at retail outlets. 

Source: Winery Purchase. Rating: 89 Points.