2006 Robert Oatley Vineyards Montrose Omaggio Barbera

Barbera Grapes

It's taken a while for me to write a post on Barbera but the wine I've chosen is one produced in the Mudgee Wine Region of New South Wales. To be more precise, the Central Ranges Wine Zone. Situated on the north-western slopes of the Great Dividing Range the Region's climate is quite different owing to its elevation, to that of the Hunter Valley on the coastal side of the mountain range. 

From the term Moothi, meaning 'nest in the hills' in the local indigenous Wiradjuri language, Mudgee is not as well known as its easterly neighbour, but has an important viticultural history that dates back to the late 1850's and now ranks as the state's third-largest wine region. It is considered that Mudgee was the original home of Australia's original Chardonnay vines, the wines from which were labelled White Pinneau.   

The Oatley family purchased the historic property Craigmoor, formerly Poet's Corner in 2006 and renamed it Robert Oatley Vineyards in 2009. The old Montrose property acts as the family's winemaking headquarters today and is the name of one of the company's relaunched brand labels.  

However, it was back in the 1970's that an Italian winemaker by the name of Carlo Corino was credited with importing Australia's first vine cuttings of Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Barbera planting them at the Montrose Stony Creek's vineyard. The Omaggio, Italian for homage, is a recognition of his legacy to winemaking with these varietals. 

The red Barbera grape is indigenous to Piedmonte in north-west Italy where it is the most widely planted variety and for all the trivia buffs out there, the fourth most planted in the whole of Italy. One of the reasons for this fact may have been that owing to simple viticultural requirements, there were vast plantings of Barbera after the phylloxera blight of the late 1800's. Now, it is the primary grape of Barbera d'Asti DOCG, Barbera del Monferrato DOC and Barbera d'Alba DOC, all of which have different idiosyncrasies of their own and which arguably are the best examples produced from the variety.

Deep red garnet in hue, the Omaggio has complex spicy plum, cherry and blackberry fruit characteristics that are fresh and fragrant on the aromatics. Nice hints of chocolate and liquorice notes as well. Medium-bodied with twelve months of barrel age, this wine is dry on the palate and well supported by the variety's natural fresh acidity and gentle tannins, which compliment in turn its sour cherry, blueberry and earthy flavours. A soft, jammy plumpiness reminds me of a Merlot-type definition. A savoury, chocolatey finish. Cries out to be matched with a wood-fired pizza napolitana. However, it does need a good decant for you to enjoy the secondary fruit characters as for me it tasted better on the second evening. 

Inevitably, comparisons are going to be made with Barbera's testy Piedmontese cousin Nebbiolo as to which will do or has done better in certain Australian wine growing conditions. For this humble blogger, it appears that Barbera has the upper hand at present.

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 14.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 90 Points. 
Website: http://www.robertoatley.com.au/home/Default.aspx  

2010 Salena Estate Ink Series Vermentino

Another variety that is now making waves and gaining momentum in Australia is Vermentino. That interest over the past decade or so has come from winemakers in the warmer regions primarily in the country's south-eastern corner. With average temperatures in inland wine regions predicted to rise 2°C over the next thirty years, emerging varieties suited to these climatic conditions such as Vermentino will become important to the consumer as other varieties struggle to adapt. 

A white grape variety grown extensively along the Mediterranean coast from Languedoc-Roussillon in France to Liguria and Tuscany along Italy's north-west coastline, Vermentino's status is also important on the islands of Sardinia and Corsica. The grape has a considerable number of synonyms among the most noted being Pigato in Liguria, Favorita in Piedmonte, Vermentinu in Corsica and Rolle in eastern Provence making it seemingly the quintessential Mediterranean variety. Commonly thought to have originated on the Iberian Peninsula and brought to Italy in the fifteenth century during a period where Spaniards ruled the waves, this theory has now been fairly well disproved with more credible evidence suggesting it was indigenous to Liguria, perhaps related to the ancient family of Malvasia grapes. The variety possesses large pyramid shaped bunches and when they ripen mid-season, produce big yellow flavourful berries with great natural acid, minimal sugar content and flavours of ripe pear and citrus.     


Salena Estate is a family-owned winery based in South Australia's Riverland Region and a certified organic production processor. The Ink Series of wines are produced to highlight particular varieties and are invariably limited in their availability. The 2010 Vermentino is pale yellow with a green edge in the glass. A lifted lemon and honey bouquet. Medium bodied that is heightened by good acid, peach and citrus fruit flavours. Dandelion floral aromas on the palate which I like very much. There is something rustic and unpretentious about this wine, yet it is mineral driven and its floral subtleties only confirm why I am enjoying the whole Italian dry white wine variety scene right now. Drink this wine while young and with seafood.

Source: Winery Sample. Alcohol: 11.0% Closure: Screwcap. 
Rating: 90+ Points. Website: http://www.salenaestate.com.au/

2009 Olssen Bass Hill Vineyard Carmenere

Carmenere Grapes

If you thought the Carmenere grape had some association with an opera by Bizet, you'd be wrong. However the drama behind the variety could well feature as the storyline for an opera itself ! It is a narrative of the nobility and the working classes, of death and devastation, of loss, triumph and eventual redemption. Perhaps all this is a little melodramatic, but it is as close to any epic human drama as any grape variety will even come to experience.

An ancient and noble variety, Carmenere is believed to be the progenitor of Cabernet Franc and therefore the Cabernet Sauvignon grape with known origins in Bordeaux's Medoc Region and wide plantations throughout the Graves Region. Prior to these facts, the Romans were instrumental in disseminating the variety from its origins in Spain to Italy and eventually to its heartland on the Left Bank . Considered the sixth member of the original vaunted Bordeaux red varieties, it was used primarily for blending purposes there, adding deep crimson colours and aromas to wines much like that other unsung variety Petit Verdot. Despite its aristocratic heritage, Carmenere's cantankerous nature as a beast of a vine in terms of its coulure (poor fruit set), late ripening and high methoxypyrazine content saw it fall out of favour with vignerons, especially in light of the cool, wet spring climates associated with this south-western region of France. 

Now to the story. A petulant variety prone to a range of debilitating conditions, our noble charge is spirited away in the dead of night by foresighted, enterprising migrants prior to the outbreak of the dreaded phylloxera plague. Devastating vineyards throughout France and Europe from the late 1860's, vines didn't stand a chance. Once the ravages of this mass-murdering root louse had passed, Carmenere was presumed to have emulated the way of the dinasaurs, obituaries flowed in tribute. What vines found were too difficult or too damaged to replant with vignerons opting for its hardier fellow Bordeaux varieties that would give them a return on their efforts rather than more misery and heartache. 

Fast forward to the 1990's and Chile. After being presumed lost and forgotten to viticultural history for almost a century and a half, our irascible Carmenere was discovered, thriving in the warm, phylloxera-free valleys of Central Chile amongst other Bordeaux varieties, most notably the hard working Merlot with which it was bended there. Indeed, Chilean winemakers believed it to be a variant of Merlot, the similarities between both vines and leaves were remarkable despite their very distinctive flavour profiles. In 1994 through DNA testing, French ampelographer Professor Jean-Michel Bousiquot revealed to the wine world that the earlier ripening grape of the two was in fact Carmenere. Often described as Merlot on steroids, the favourable Chilean growing conditions had produced a deep, dark and rich wine with smoky, earthy aromas and flavours of black plums, licorice and mocha. 

The story now had come full circle, there was a happy ending to this epic saga, the opera was over. Carmenere had been rediscovered 11,700 kilometres away and was now officially recognised as Chile's own separate varietal, its signature wine. Every grape has its own fascinating history, Carmenere's probably the most remarkable of them all. That kind of story is one of the reasons why I enjoy drinking wine.        

Australia's history with the Carmenere variety is very recent. Cuttings from Chile were imported in the late 1990's with the first vines planted in 2002 after the regulatory quarantine period. The Olssen family's Bass Hill vineyard in the Clare Valley had one of Australia's first plantings of Carmenere. This vintage is its second and the only single varietal to be bottled in Australia. Bright crimson purple in colour - the name carmin actually means crimson in French - with a violet tinge on the glass rim. I get red currents, dried herbs, green peppers and smoke on the nose with a hint of bittersweet chocolate. It's fairly low key and medium bodied unlike its richer, spicier, black fruit Chilean counterparts. Fresh, succulent red cherries, prune juice and light tannins on the palate with an aftertaste of granulated coffee. Had I not known this was a Carmenere, I would have thought, its Chilean comrade Merlot but sans the steroids, had made an appearance ! To paraphrase Miles in Sideways, "this is a well made but ultimately non-distinct wine, there is nothing wrong here, it just wasn't a transcendent wine experience". Nevertheless, kudos to the Olssen family for pioneering this variety in Australia.

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 13%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 86 Points. 
No website at present. 
   

2010 Hickinbotham of Dromana Taminga

Innovation, foresight, knowledge and quality are the hallmarks of the Hickinbotham Family whose association with wine production in Australia has stretched across a number of generations. Their winery and its vineyards on Victoria's Mornington Peninsula have been deigned to minimise the effects of production on the environment while at the same time ensuring positive and sustainable outcomes to it and the local community. Such is the care and commitment that their mission statement is available on the winery website, a fact not embraced by many others, at least in practical terms.

The Tamnga grape variety was originally developed in the halcyon 1960's decade by the Australian CSIRO to be grown in warmer climatic and higher yielding conditions such as the Riverland Region of South Australia. The term Taminga ('place of the white gum') was derived from pre-European settlement, a name given to Adelaide by the indigenous Kaurna people whose territory extended from the bottom of the Fleurieu Peninsula in the south to the eastern shores of Gulf St. Vincent in the north.      

A cross between Riesling and Gewurztraminer, the grape combines the floral aromas of Riesling with the spicy characteristics of Gewurztraminer to produce a wine of zesty, mouth-filling intensity. While Taminga was originally intended to produce a sweeter style of wine,  Hickinbotham of Dromana has used innovation and expertise to allow the grape at its cooler estate vineyards on the Peninsula to flourish and yield a distinctly interesting melange of powerful aromatics, spice and citrus fruits. What more could you expect from a variety with such a heritage!   

With changes in our culinary eating culture and the proliferation of Asian restaurants, Taminga is very well suited in standing toe to toe with the fiercest of dishes. Whether it is a nuclear Thai green curry or a lava hot Indian beef vindaloo, it impresses with how it quells the heat and spice while retaining its own integrity. While other whites buckle under the torrid assault and slink off to the background, Taminga does not in any way, shape or form. Often I am amused even bemused to see diners have the heavier reds accompany these types of cuisine but people once frowned if you had reds with fish. It's a personal choice isn't it ? My preference and recommendation to match these incendiary dishes has now changed to Taminga.

Once poured this bright straw yellow coloured wine opens up with some lovely lifted aromas of citrus and fresh flowers continuing on to a ripe mouth filling palate of spicy pear and lime with a hint of apricot and guava action in the background to add interest. Backed up by clean, balanced, crunchy citrus zest, the Taminga finishes crisp and dry. I liked this from the first sip. For wine aficionados and funsters alike, do yourselves a favour and experience this intriguing variety at your next Asian restaurant outing, you will not be disappointed. Drinking beautifully now.

Source: Winery Sample. Alcohol: 12.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 92 Points. 

Website: http://www.hickinbotham.biz/   

2010 Mt. Franklin Estate Pinot Grigio

There has to be some magical ingredient in the volcanic soils at Mt. Franklin Estate that helps owner and winemaker Lesley McGillivray make such delicious wines. One of three Italian grape varieties produced at this boutique family-owned winery north of Daylesford, the 2010 Pinot Grigio vintage is a superb example of old world finesse blended with big Australian fruit flavours and spice. Fifteen years experience of growing the Grigio grape in this extraordinary terroir has enabled McGillivray to bottle such a delicious wine.    

One could reasonably argue that Pinot Grigio and its French counterpart Pinot Gris, has these days become a mainstream variety in Australia, grown in all states and virtually all regions. Both the Grigio and Gris grapes are the same variety, the difference lies in the style in which the wine is made despite the early ambiguity surrounding what label to use on what wine style. Speaking of labels, if there ever was a grape variety that demands closer scrutiny of a wine bottle's back label, it is this one. 

A grape variety of the species vitis vinifera, Pinot Grigio is believed to be a mutant clone of the Pinot Noir grape and takes its name from the French translation for 'pinot' meaning 'pine cone', a reference to the pine cone shaped clusters of the grapes. The variety usually thrives in cool climate regions such as in its north-eastern Italian heartland of Alto-Adige, Veneto and Friuli and judging by this regional Victorian interpretation, certainly delivers the goods in environs not too dissimilar. 

Pale straw yellow to the eye with a slight bronze tinge throughout due to the greyish-purple colour of the grapes. Subtle lifted aromas of pear, peach and floral blossom with a little citrus and mineral action permeating the nose. The first thing you notice on the palate is the wine's crisp, off dry style followed by the underlying savoury, mineral notes typical of the variety.  Texturally, the wine is silky smooth, slightly oily but enough steely acidity and pear, lychee and nutmeg flavours throughout to make this a well made, approachable wine with lovely balance and length.

Source: Winery Sample. Alcohol: 13.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 89 Points.

Website: http://www.mtfranklinestate.com.au/

2009 Elderton Wines Barossa Zinfandel

Similar to quite a number of grape varieties, Zinfandel has a controversial past. There appears to be conjecture as to its lineage. Its origins were believed to be a twin of the Primitivo variety of Italy's Puglia region and as having a relationship to the Plavic Mali grape from the former Yugoslav republic of Croatia. However, DNA profiling has now indicated that its genetic root goes back to the grape Crljenak Kasteljanski, which was grown in the Dalmatia province of Croatia. There is even research that suggests original plantings migrating there from Greece.

Zinfandel or 'Zin' as the Yanks prefer to call it, arrived in the United States in the early nineteenth century and despite a hiccup or two along the way, is now considered a signature American wine and the mainstay particularly of the California viticulture scene, popularity and proliferation wise. Our good buddies from across the pond would have us believe that it is their indigenous variety but the truth appears to be that in terms of vitis vinifera vines, it will be the closest they get to an all American variety. Be that as it may, the Yanks are responsible for Zinfandel's prominence on the world's wine stage creating not just the dry and sweet red wine styles but also the uber-popular rose/blush White Zinfandel that caters to the American white wine-drinking consumer market.     

In Australia, Zinfandel hasn't fared as well owing to its similarity to Shiraz and our tradition with this mainstream variety. Margaret River's Cape Mentelle was the first winery to take up the cudgels in the early 1990's and now seems to be the benchmark for Zinfandel in this country. The grape tends to do well in warmer climates where its susceptibility to bunch rot, mildew and uneven ripening - even within the same bunch - may not be an issue.  

This 2009 Elderton Zinfandel is part of the company's Estate Range with the grapes sourced from vineyards in the Greenock sub-region of the Barossa Valley and the Eden Valley. In the glass it exhibits rich dark purple colours. Lifted jammy berry fruit sweetness on the aromatics incorporates hints of spice and plum that flow into a lively textured wine. Pepper of the black variety and chocolate complete the full bodied, dense palate. A little coarse in places, not aided by the heavy heat, which subtracted from the enjoyment. In short, a wine of good balance between its savoury and varietal fruit components but to me, this version wasn't overly generous, there was something missing, a knock out punch perhaps that would have pushed it over the line. A variety to consider as an alternative to Shiraz and one I'll explore further in future posts. 

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 16.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 87 Points.  
Website: http://www.eldertonwines.com.au/

2010 Brown Brothers Crouchen Riesling

    

There are a number of white wines in Australia that are real crowd-pleasers and this unique blend of 67% Crouchen and 33% Riesling from Brown Brothers, is one of them. We all know that Riesling is one of the world's classic white grape varieties but I will concentrate upon the Crouchen component of this blend primarily as it falls under the mantle of rare grape varietal status.

Crouchen or Crouchen Blanc originated in the Pyrenees wine region of south-west France and by all accounts it appears that this obscure white grape variety has disappeared from production there although it does come up as a variety that can be used in the wines of Bearn. South Africa - where it is called Cape Riesling but is not related to the actual Riesling varietal -  and Australia are the only two countries in the world commercially producing the variety.

A fascinating story and identity crisis of sorts emerged in Australia that lasted more than a century before the Crouchen variety was identified in the mid-1970's. Prior to this revelation, the grape it appears arrived in the 1850's from South Africa as Riesling making its way to the Clare Valley. There, it became known as Clare Riesling. It also found its way to the Barossa Valley and Riverland regions where it was called Semillon, which Australians at the time believed to be the Riesling variety! Sanity or something like that prevailed, and the name Clare Riesling stuck around until the eventual identification. Given all these machinations, another intriguing tale narrates that James Busby introduced Sales Blanc or Sable Blanc in the 1830's, both synonyms for Crouchen and a variety used in the Vin de Sable wines of the Landes department in south-west France, adding more complexity to the early history of this rare grape. 

Crouchen is rarely made as a varietal wine possibly because of its neutral flavours yet it does do well in blends. This 2010 blend has a pale straw colour with a greenish tinge to it. Enticing aromas of ripe pear, honeydew melon and citrus are graceful on the nose. The lively palate is not sweet but packed with rich fruity and spicy flavours that are balanced by the Riesling's acidity leading to a crisp yet smooth and generous finish. I was surprised how much I enjoyed this wine, having preconceptions that it would be too sweet for my liking. There is residual sugar but it is well integrated. Serve chilled and drink while young with Asian spiced foods. Widely available from local watering holes to cruise ships on the high seas, believe it or not !        

Brown Brothers has a market stranglehold on the grape and has produced the Crouchen Riesling blend since the early1970's and a further two wines of late using the it in other blends: the Crouchen Sauvignon Blanc and the Crouchen Riesling Rose, where a small percentage of Cienna is used.  

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 10.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 89+ Points. 
Website: http://www.brownbrothers.com.au/

2009 Campbells Wines Trebbiano

I can't say if I've tried much varietal Trebbiano in the past. Those that were consumed usually came blended with Chardonnay or Colombard and in four litre cardboard handbags from some winery like Woop Woop Estate. The mere thought of these wines gives me a headache as if I'm suffering some kind of retrospective hangover. But I guess they had their import in the greater scheme of things as far as industry objectives and consumer demand were concerned at the time and possibly still do if you take a look into some retail outlets today. 

Trebbiano or 'White Hermitage' as it was known, has been in Australia since James Busby introduced it in the 1830's. Most plantings are found in New South Wales and South Australia with few these days offered as varietal wines. Campbells, one of Australia's first families of wine now 140 years young, grew the grape originally for sherry production at its Rutherglen Winery in north east Victoria. The slow decline in public consumption of fortified wines towards the latter half of the 1960's meant that in order to meet the increasing popularity of table wines, Campbells reinvented their two white varieties one of which was Trebbiano, into varietal wines. The multiple award winning Glenburn Trebbiano was their first release and a trail blazer for this varietal in Australia. 

Trebbiano is a variety indigenous throughout Italy enjoying the title as its most widely- planted white grape variety and is included in over 80 DOC's. The whites from the Orvieto region of Umbria are probably the most renown of Trebbiano-based blends using a local clone Procanico in the mix. A fun fact. The Trebbiano grape is also used in the production of balsamic vinegar. 
Furthermore, Trebbiano holds second position as most planted vine in the world in terms of acreage, behind the Spanish white grape Airen! The what? It appears however that in recent years the crown Airen wore as the world's most planted grape has slipped, that distinction now held by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Airen still holds the mantle as world's most widely-planted white grape variety.    
Under the name Ugni Blanc in France, the Trebbiano vine holds most widely-planted white grape status and appears to have had more success there than anywhere else. It grows extensively along the Provencal coast, the Gironde and Charente regions where it is mainly used as table wine. In the Cognac and Armagnac regions where it is known as St. Emilion, Trebbiano is used in providing wine for distilling into brandy.

Despite the records and importance in various regions, Trebbiano cannot escape the fact that it produces varietal wines of bland uniformity, better known for high quantity yields rather than for quality vintages. In the glass the 2009 Campbells vintage is a clear mid-yellow in colour. Aromas of honey suckle and dried grass are quite restrained with the palate clean, zesty.and to a degree, mouth-puckering. A light-bodied white whose green peach, lime fruit and herbal nuances are overwhelmed by the tart acidity and alcohol. There's an unpleasant razor's edge feel through to the finish. It's a wine, not unlike Muscadet that screams out for fresh shell fish but without food, I unfortunately cannot call this more than a quaffer. 

Trebbiano's reputation precedes it and it is difficult to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Campbells Wines has probably made a wine as best as it could given the grape's blandness and for that it should be commended.

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 13%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 85 Points.  
Website: http://www.campbellswines.com.au/ 

2010 Brown Brothers Cienna

The second wine in this celebration of Australia Day is Cienna, a variety also bred by the boffins at the CSIRO Division of Horticultural Research at Merbein. Cienna was initially pollinated back in the early 1970's before being officially launched in 2000. 
Its name comes from a derivation of the Sienna colour and is the product of a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and the rare red Spanish grape Sumoll. This is also a unique New World grape variety that has been pioneered by Brown Brothers with Australian climatic conditions in mind.

The Sumoll grape is native to the Catalonia region of Spain and is a rustic variety known for its resistance to drought. However, its popularity has waned there in recent times owing to poor quality, low yield crops and changing denomination regulations. 
Sumoll's ability to thrive in some of Australia's hot, dry growing conditions was a major contributing factor in the development of the Cienna variety. 
And it hasn't just been one of the parents of the Cienna grape variety but also the other unique Australian grapes, Rubienne and Tyrian. It would appear that Spain's loss has become our gain !

Brown Brothers has championed Cienna for a decade and its position in their portfolio of chilled red wine styles is important in meeting consumer demand for these products.Indeed, in recent vintages it has been used as a blending partner in a Rose and in the Moscato.With its Rose wines, a Dolcetto & Syrah blend, a Moscato Rosa and the Tarrango, Cienna completes an impressive spectrum of light-bodied red wines from which to choose.

The 2010 vintage is stunning to the eye with its deep purple colour. Imagine cutting a beetroot in half after it has been cooked.

From the outset, Cienna needs to be slightly chilled to maximise enjoyment, particularly because of the frizzante component that offers a nice refreshing tingle to the palate. Delicious upfront flavours of sweet cherry, ripe blackberry and blueberry with that little hit of spice linger well after the bubbles disappear. 

A light bodied wine despite the fruit intensity with little if no tannin to speak of and an alcohol level not much more than a full strength beer. Nicely balanced, juicy, smooth and utterly refreshing, the Cienna can start a dinner, go the full distance with a wide array of cuisine types or even finish the evening as a palate cleanser. A hidden gem.   



Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 6.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 90 Points.

Website: http://www.brownbrothers.com.au/

     

2008 Brown Brothers Tarrango

As we move closer to Australia Day, what better way to acknowledge our national day than to focus upon a couple of unique Australian grape varieties. 
The first is Tarrango, bred by the white coat brigade at Victoria's CSIRO Merbein laboratory in the mid-1960's, the grape named after the small town of Tarrango in north-west Victoria. 
A cross between the red Portuguese variety Touriga and that humble white all-rounder the Sultana grape, Perhaps Australia's answer to Beaujolais, it was designed specifically as a light, fruity red wine to be drunk in countries that experience hot summer months. 

To be originally grown in that region of Victoria where summer temperatures can be brutally hot, Tarrango vines have high, late ripening yields, fresh acidity, soft grapey flavours and low tannins. Brown Brothers has been producing wines from this grape since 1980 and document the use in recent years of the carbonic maceration technique by which a certain amount of the fruit is allowed to ferment whole as it is done in Beaujolais, to add both complexity and flavour to the final product.

A light cherry red colour in the glass, similar to a cross between a Pinot Noir and a Rose. 
A dry and light-bodied wine that is characterised by lifted aromas of fresh red currants, raspberries, cherries with a nice spicy nuance on the palate. There is a lovely juiciness that abounds throughout with low tannins and acid balance that add to the mouthfeel. 
Tarrango needs to be served slightly chilled and enjoyed while young, not that this vintage sent me into retroperistalsis! The wine's versatility would match a wide variety of cuisines, even the heat of Indian curries shouldn't be an issue. 
Not an overly complex wine but refreshing and delicious to drink. Get on board if you haven't yet tried it. Keep one or two in the fridge over the warmer months.

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 13.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 89 Points. Website: http://www.brownbrothers.com.au/

2008 Quealy Senza None Tocai Friulano

If the European Union had acted with such determination to settle the current debt crisis as it did over a decade ago with Hungarian objections banning the use of the name Tocai on Italian wine labels, then Europe and the world could be in a far healthier economic position. Hungary started the imbroglio claiming that there was the danger of confusion with their trademark Tokaji or Tokay dessert wine. Maybe there was some unfinished business from the old Empire days that the Hungarians needed to right, who knows? The European Union's decision gave Hungary the right to the name Tokaji or Tocai or Tokay, the law being enacted since the 2007 vintage.

It wasn't just the good Friulano growing folk from Italy's north east who copped this ban, but also their Alsace winemaking comrades producing Tokay d'Alsace or Tokay Pinot Gris as it became, who faced the same restriction. And as if to underline that we live in a global economy, Australian producers also using the name Tokay for their fortified dessert wines, have had to think creatively about what to rename their luscious bounty. So, if you've never heard of theTopaque, this is its new metamorphosis. Since 2007, Australia agreed to cease using certain terms such as Tokay amongst others in line with trade regulations and settled on the synonym Topaque, supposedly derived from the precious gemstone Topaz.

That's enough of the political and commercial discourse for now, there is a grape to describe and a wine to review. Friulano is an important white grape variety indigenous to Italy's north-eastern region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia where it has grown extensively for many centuries. Also known as Sauvigon Vert or Sauvignonasse in neighbouring Slovenia, Friulano has been used in blendings to create the super-whites of that region in Italy. Confusion reigns supreme as to the origins and identity of the grape. Was it an Hungarian import or did it make the journey the other way from local origins? Just to muddy the waters even more, Friulano bears no connection with the French varieties Sauvignon Blanc or Savignin, as its other nomenclatures may allude to.

The nickname Senza Nome, meaning 'without name' or 'nameless' in Italian was given to this 2008 Friulano by its winemaker Kathleen Quealy and appears to be a sarcastic barb directed towards the implications of the aforementioned European decision. Quealy pioneered Pinot Gris to the Australian wine drinking public while she was at the helm of her T'Gallant Winery on Victoria's Mornington Peninsula and deservedly won acclaim for this feat. She hoped to create her own super-white version and was inspired by the grapes grown in the Friulian provinces moderated by the Adriatic Sea climate, which she considered similar to that on the Mornington Peninsula.

Quealy grows a few hectares of Friulano at her Balnarring Vineyard having originally sourced cuttings from a twenty year old vineyard block in Mildura. It is still a rare grape on the Australian scene and Quealy can rightly be referred to as the pioneer of this varietal too. In the glass theSenza Nome is pale yellow straw in colour. Reserved initially, the nose opens up to reveal captivating and fragrant aromas of wildflowers, pear and spicy green apple. Floral, without being overpowering. There wasn't much length to speak of but the texture and mouthfeel more than make up for this. That's the key. A dry, crunchy palate of fruits, herbs and nuts was well balanced, it's as though you are eating a salad of cucumber, dill, fennel and almonds sprinkled lightly with citric acid. Very European! Light to medium bodied, this is an easily enjoyable wine. With sushi, sashimi or indeed any other Japanese dish, Friulano is an ideal match. A great find. 

Source: Winery Purchase. Alcohol: 11.3%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 92 Points.

Website: http://www.quealy.com.au/index.php

2010 Paul Conti Tuart Vineyards Chenin Blanc

It is said that confession is good for the soul, so it is time for me to fess up as it were. Chenin Blanc was my first adventure, perhaps even love, into the grape unknown! Apologies for that cliche but first impressions are always memorable and while the Chardonnay bandwagon was ploughing its way across our big brown land, the undervalued and underrated Chenin Blanc was punching above its weight, well at least for me. Those made by Brown Brothers, Coriole from McLaren Vale and Margaret River's Amberley Estate are three outstanding examples that spring easily to mind.

Part of the Paul Conti Premium Range of wines, the 2010 Tuart Vineyards Chenin Blanc is produced from fruit grown at Carabooda, north of Perth along what is known as the Swan Coastal Region. What characterises wines from this area of Western Australia are the mild maritime climate from the nearby Indian Ocean, the fertile sandy top soils that sit over limestone base soils and the Tuart tree, one of the rarest eucalypts remaining in the world. Paul Conti has produced this particular wine ftom grapes grown in Tuart soils, a direct result of this region's trees.

The Chenin Blanc grape is the mainstay of the Central Loire Valley in France and its best representations originate from the Vouvray, Savennieres, Anjou and Samur appellations. It is a grape whose wines range widely in style from the sparkling to the bone dry and off dry, from the medium sweet to the rich, concentrated botrytis examples. Some Australian winemakers even use barrel maturation to add complexity. All styles have the potential of age-worthiness, unusual for a white grape variety. Its versatility is such that the grape grows well in a variety of soil profiles and climates and appears to be resistant to many vineyard diseases.

In South Africa and in particular the Cape Coastal Region, Chenin Blanc is the most widely planted variety and known locally by the synonym Steen. It sounds more like the name of a beer than a wine but there are arguments that Steen is a true local variety, evolving over three hundred years of wine growing in that country, from the original imported Chenin Blanc grapes. How the grape arrived in Australia however, and particularly to its spiritual home in the west, is an interesting issue that can be answered partly by South Africa's proximity to Western Australia and by the importation of their vines to the west during the nineteenth century.

Pale yellow in colour with a slight green tinge in the glass. Off the bat there was a lingering cabbage stew stink on the nose that thankfully dissipated after some aeration. This wine then exhibited the trademark Chenin Blanc aromas of fresh red apples, citrus and pears. Crisp and soft, herbaceous fruit flavours ran the length of the palate to a long, refreshing finish.

I was blown away the first occasion I tasted this wine. The balance of fruit flavours, minerality and acid was spectacular. Perhaps it was the way it complemented the Thai food that accompanied it or the restaurant, I don't know. That profile was still there but I wasn't as impressed this time around. Second impressions can be different. Nevertheless, I will confess my affection for this grape remains!

Source: Retail Purchase. Rating: 88 Points. Website: http://www.paulcontiwines.com.au/

2007 Narkoojee Sparkling Cabernet Merlot

The Cuvee Robert Fordham is named as a tribute to the inaugural Chairman at Narkoojee Wines and is a sparkling blend comprising 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot.

The boutique Narkoojee Winery is situated at Glengary in the Western Gippsland sub-region of the larger Gippsland Wine Zone. Enormous geographically yet relatively small as a wine producing area, the Gippsland Zone defies any classification but its vastness does encapsulate three quite separate and distinct sub-regions in terms of terroir: east, south and west.

The climate in the Western sub-region is generally cool and dry influenced by the snowfields of the Great Diving Range to its north and west. Warmer autumns encourage longer ripening periods. The production of rich Chardonnays, softer and lighter Pinot Noirs, Cabernet Merlot blends and the emergence of sparkling wines are the hallmarks of this largest of the Gippsland wine sub-regions.

Let's face it, sparkling reds have been a unique Australian style of wine for donkey's years, an important staple in our wining and dining lifestyle. Mainly produced in the past from the shiraz grape, there is nothing better to tingle the taste buds and enliven the senses than a chilled bottle! As an accompaniment to the Christmas turkey in our own unique weather at that festive time of year, it is an ideal choice.

Narkoojee, meaning "place of flowers" in the local indigenous Kurnai language has produced sparkling reds for a decade and according to winemaker Harry Friend, is dependent upon the varieties available at the time of vintage.

Fermented in the bottle according to the traditional Champagne method, this sparkling comes across deep purply red in colour. The bouquet has a lively freshness of lifted black fruits and hints of Christmas plum pudding that entice immediate consumption. On the palate lovely Merlot dark fruits once again predominate with that little bit of cinnamon spice to add interest, which is all held together within a balanced, zesty structure. Medium bodied compared to some other sparkling reds from warmer climates. A mouthfilling and refreshing finish to this elegant sparkling blend of mainstream grapes. 

Source: Winery Purchase. Rating: 90+ Points. Website: http://www.narkoojee.com/narkoojee/

2007 McPherson Basilisk Marsanne Viognier

The Basilisk label is the name McPherson Family Wines has given to their premium range produced from grapes grown at the company's Goulburn Valley vineyards in Central Victoria. The mythical basilisk creature with the crested head of a rooster and tail of a serpent has been used as an inspiration to the classical Rhone blend of Marsanne and Viognier by virtue of the thinking that two different components make a complete whole.

The elegant aromatics and mineral structure of the wine's eighty percent Marsanne is enhanced, maybe slightly overpowered by the twenty percent Viognier's fragrance and muskiness, but it's a moot point here. This wine has won a slew of awards at regional and 
capital city wine shows and it is easy to see why.

Bright yellow in the glass, marmalade and fresh blossom on the nose are intriguing and enticing. An attractive palate combines apricot, pear, green peach and hints of nut. The lively texture is underpinned by a lemon acidity that will help the wine develop interest with age. Good balance, length and alcohol level. No oak was used in the production of this wine! A classic cool climate wine that will suit a diversity of cuisine types.

Source: Retail Purchase. Rating: 89 Points. Website: http://www.mcphersonwines.com.au/

2010 Terra Felix La Vie En Rose

The Rose Revolution juggenaut rolls on with this predominantly mourvedre-based variety from the central Victorian Upper Goulburn Wine Region. Summer is a great time of year to imbibe in the diversity of roses available, seemingly produced now from every conceivable red grape variety and blends thereof. It is the perfect drink for Australia's outdoor lifestyle and warm climate.

I thought I'd focus on the 2010 La Vie En Rose because of its Mourvedre component, which makes up about two thirds of the wine with the remainder, Shiraz and Grenache. Our use of the varietal has been in the popular Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre (GSM) blends from the Barrosa Valley and McLaren Vale regions, so this rose is an interesting take on this blend. It is slightly more complex and vibrant in colour than its predecessor the 2009 vintage, made from one hundred percent Mourvedre grapes and one of only a few such expressions of Mourvedre rose in Australia at present.

Mourvedre is an ancient red grape variety that researchers believe was introduced to Catalonia in modern day Spain by Phoenician maritime traders around 500 BC. It later became known as Monastrell throughout Spain or Mataro after the city in the Catalan commune of Barcelona. Its migration to France during the 1500's took the variety to the Rhone Valley and Bandol on the Mediterranean coast in Provence where it found sanctuary during the late nineteenth century phylloxera epidemic. The Great French Wine Blight as it was known, devastated French as well as other European vineyards and drove Mourvedre almost to the point of extinction. It actually took until after World War II for sufficient vinestock to be developed and adapted to combat the parasitic louse. Mourvedre plays the primary component in the renown Bandol AOC roses and other red wines today.

Terra Felix sources its grapes from selected cool climate vineyards throughout the Central Victorian Region, an area that has granite and alluvial soils and continental climate similar to the Northern Rhone District. Their choice of grapes reflects an Australian take on the classic Northern Rhone varieties and is a homage of sorts to the terroir in this part of the Lucky Country.

A striking dark pink colour in the glass, the strawberry, cherry, rose petal and herbal aromatics give you the impression that a candied, fruity concoction lays in wait. Far from it. Dry, medium bodied and well balanced. Underlying Mourvedre savoury, earthy notes enhance the palate's crunchy red apple freshness and crisp acidity. A serious rose.

Relax and drink this rose chilled while listening to amongst other of her classics, the original La Vie En Rose sung by the La Petite Mome herself, Edith Piaf. Tawdry, newer versions such as Grace Jones' will never cut the mustard and will just have you reaching for the vodka bottle! 

Source: Retail Purchase. Rating: 88 Points. Website: http://www.terrafelix.com.au/