2011 Iron Pot Bay Wines Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon

Established in 1988, Iron Pot Bay is located on the western side of the beautiful Tamar River at Devoit, northern Tasmania. It is the only vineyard that grows Semillon commercially in Tasmania. The 0.16 of a hectare planting is used as a blending partner with Sauvignon Blanc, making the final product unique to the Tamar Valley Region and to the island itself. 

Semillon is better known in warmer regions such as the Hunter Valley, Barossa Valley and Margaret River but its proximity to the river lessens the risk of frost and has some effect on heat summation, generally helping the grapes to ripen well. With considerable plantings of Sauvignon Blanc in Tasmania, the blend offers punters something different and distinctive. 

This wine is vinified by Jeremy Dineen, Chief Winemaker at Josef Chromy Wines since 2006 and whose impressive track record has seen him complete vintages at Margaret River, McLaren Vale, Victoria's Goulburn Valley and southern Tasmania over many years. 

Pale straw in appearance. There are subtle lifted notes of lime and passionfruit but it's green capsicum aromas that dominate. More on the herbal or vegetal side than fruit-driven style. The palate is fairly one dimensional with green capsicum, green beans and lemongrass at the front end supported by a fine flinty minerality and refreshing vibrant acidity across the tongue. I like that the Semillon has given the Sauvignon Blanc a softer dimension while not cancelling out its individuality given that some Sauvignon Blancs from down south can be quite pungent and acidic. Overall, nicely textured, good mouth feel with a crisp, lively finish. A wine for early consumption rather than cellaring. Worth trying as something out of the ordinary from Tasmania.

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 12.4%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 89+ Points. 

Website: http://www.ironpotbay.com.au/index.html

2008 d'Arenberg The Sticks & Stones Tempranillo Shiraz Tinta Cao Souzao

A quixotic blend from d'Arenberg's avant-garde genius Chester Osborn. Predominantly an Iberian-inspired blend from McLaren Vale grapes, the Spanish Tempranillo provides the bulk (47%) with parcels of the black Portuguese varieties Tinta Cao (15%) and Souzao (15%) with Shiraz (23%) completing the quartet. In previous vintages, Grenache was utilised in lieu of the Shiraz but it changes quite a bit depending on the year, according to the ebullient Osborn.  

Both the Tinta Cao and Souzao are prized grapes used in the production of Port wine and are native to Portugal's Douro Valley Region. The d'Arenberg Winery celebrates its centenary this year and if these varieties were around as long may have formed the basis of port wine, Australia's preferred 'tipple' of yesteryear. There are 0.6 hectares of each variety since they were introduced in 1999 with the first Sticks & Stones released in 2002. What these rare varieties bring to the table are pungent aromatics and a complex mix of red and dark fruit flavours and according to the winery, have a greater influence upon the blend                                                                    than their relative percentages would suggest.  

The wine's drawn-out name relates to vine sticks grown in stoney ground but probably more to the point is the quirky reference to the proverb from our youth. Some reviews have questioned the inclusion of the two Portuguese varieties but to paraphrase a famous quote, seeing things as they are and asking why and dreaming of things that never were and saying why not, may go to explain Osborn's thinking behind their presence in this complex, brooding blend. This is one of the things that is so admirable about our winemakers, the preparedness to push the envelope.   

A profound red-purple colour, almost inky in the glass. Mouth-watering aromatics of dark chocolate, fresh violets, dark berries and tea leaves. Medium to full bodied, there is a wonderful amalgam of plum and red current fruit flavours, sour cherry, licorice and star anise spice that give the palate an intense yet seamless and voluptuous texture. A good amount of earthy or rustic notes and soft leather. Secondary flavours of dried herbs and vanilla oak. Powdery tannins add to the overall complexity. There is spicy acidity through to the finish, which although lingering was too hot at the back end. A lot to like nonetheless about this rich and generous blend that kicks like a port. A wine to match a carnivorous feast ! 

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 14.2%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 90+ Points. 
Website: http://www.darenberg.com.au/

2011 Boat O'Craigo Black Spur Gewürztraminer

The history of the Gewürztraminer variety is in a word, complicated. There are many synonyms recorded including Traminer, a white grape family subjected to clonal mutations since the Romans brought an ancient Greek vine to the Alto Adige region in Italy's north and specifically to around the village of Tramin (Termeno) where it is thought the name originated. It appears that Traminer vines were planted in these Tyrolean foothills at the time Leif (Erik The Red) Ericson set foot on Vinland, the Norse name for an area of the North America continent where wild grape vines were indeed discovered.  

As with other varieties Traminer evolved on its genetic and geographical journeys into an aromatic variety. North to Germany's Pfalz region by the Middle Ages, it acquired the prefixes Gewürz, meaning 'spiced' or Roter meaning 'red/crimson' a reference to the colour. By the late 1800's vines were imported from across the Rhine to Alsace where today, the best examples of its wines are generally produced. The French have used the term musque whilst the Italians aromatico to describe the grape's metamorphosis, a situation that is given further intrigue with the belief of a relationshop between the various Traminers and the white Savagnin grape from the French Jura Region.  

The Traminer synonym has been used interchangeably in Australia depending upon growing region and/or winemaker preferences but unfortunately has suffered from public perception that it makes a sweet wine style. Often blended with Riesling, the variety is grown in all of Australia's states but is still generally considered an alternative variety. 

A boutique wine producer from the Yarra Valley, Boat O'Craigo takes it name from an ancestral settlement alongside the North Esk River in Craigo, Scotland. The Gewürztraminer vines as with the winery's other whites are grown at the Black Spur vineyard at Healesville in the Valley's higher and cooler north-eastern region. The variety is a rare beast in these parts known more for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines. This vintage is the winery's third release after vines were first planted in 2006.

  

Gewürztraminer Grapes

A pale quartz-green in the glass, the aromatics are more of a fruit shop than a perfumed boudoir. It smells of ginger, jasmine, lychee and fresh citrus. A slight scent of musk. The light to medium palate lacks that pungency and power, that varietal character of perfumed rose petals, musk,Turkish Delight and lychees Gewürztraminer is known for. There are some stone fruit flavours, lime and spicy lychee notes and a talc-like minerality to the texture but not much more. Crisp, fresh and balanced. It could have been a Riesling in a blind tasting. Appealing and drinkable but somewhat disappointing overall.   




Source: Winery Purchase. Alcohol: 11.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 87 Points.
Website: http://www.boatocraigo.com.au/

2005 Ballandean Estate Wines Late Harvest Sylvaner

The term 'liquid gold' is bandied about these days to describe anything from oil to beer to breast milk and is a reference invariably to a liquid's exceptional quality and perhaps to its outstanding colour. The 2005 Late Harvest Sylvaner from the Ballandean Estate winery in Queensland's Granite Belt Region, ticks both boxes. 

The winery has had a pivotal role in helping pioneer the region's and indeed Queensland's wine industry since the late 1960's. The quality of their range of wines is unquestioned with the rare, multiple award-winning Late Harvest Sylvaner the specialty wine. It is documented as Australia's original cordon-cut style that has been produced by the Puglisi family on an infrequent basis for over twenty five years and according to public demand. Acclaimed UK Wine Journalist and author of The Wines Of Alsace (1993) Tom Stevenson, has described it as "the best Sylvaner I have ever tasted, the best of its style in the world". 

Sylvaner is not something that comes up in the same breath as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc would for instance, perceived rather as producing less than compelling wines by those in the know. An ugly duckling sort of variety with high acid levels that is made for early consumption, it seems to have fallen victim to increased plantings of more mainstream varieties such as Riesling and Pinot Gris in Alsace, France for example where it used to have a strong foothold. 

A cross between Traminer and the now rarely cultivated Hunnic variety Austrian Wine, its origins are unclear but thought to be either Austria itself or Transylvania in modern day Romania as evidenced by its name. It seems that wines were cultivated in Count Dracula's backyard since the 7th century BC and today the region is viewed as a nirvana for white varietals. With the expansion of empires and the migration of people, the grape spread throughout Europe notably Alsace, Luxembourg, north-east Italy, Germany and as far as Russia. 

A few Australian wineries in cooler regions continue to grow Sylvaner but Ballandean Estate has made their version into an 'elegant swan'. Golden in colour with greenish tinges, the wine has in the best sense of the word, intoxicating aromas of potpourri, glazed apricot and orange peel. Some oak. The palate offers up a viscous body of lime and melon marmalade with secondary flavours of quince and pineapple, the whole beautifully balanced by the grape's natural acidity. A crisp, spicy aftertaste with some sweet nuances. Fresh fruit or a cheese platter would accompany this class act really well. Lusciousness in a 375 ml bottle.

Source: Winery Sample. Alcohol: 9.0%. Closure: Cork ! Rating: 91 Points.
Website: http://www.ballandeanestate.com/Default.aspx

2011 S.C. Pannell Tempranillo Touriga

An exciting and original blend of the indigenous Iberian heavyweights Tempranillo (63%) and Touriga (37%) from renown winemaker Stephen Pannell. His history, knowledge and expertise of the industry listed Pannell as one of the top 50 influential contributors to the world of wine by Decanter Magazine in 1997. That vaunted reputation has seen him go from strength to strength with a portfolio of superb and affordable wines from his small family-owned McLaren Vale winery. 

Blending seamlessly together, the dark and brooding flavours of the Touriga combine with the earthier, savoury aspects of the Tempranillo to produce an approachable, food-friendly wine. My notes point to the intense dark cherry red colour in the glass and to the exotic and complex bouquet of fresh dark fruits, floral aromas, musk, cocoa and liquorice. Texturally silky, medium-bodied and dry but a juicy palate packed with blackberry, dark chocolate and those cherries again, add intensity to the profile. Finishes warm, moderately tannic and spicy. Delicious drinking now in its youth but will kick on until 2017.

Source: Restaurant Wine List. Alcohol: 14.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 91+ Points.
Website: https://www.pannell.com.au/
    

2008 Churchview Estate The Bartondale Reserve Marsanne

Marsanne is grown in all mainland states with the bulk of producers located in Victoria. This example from the Churchview Estate winery in Western Australia's Margaret River comes from a small planting started back in 2000.  

Marsanne is an interesting variety in that it tends to polarise opinion. You either love it or you don't and our 150 year plus history with this classic Rhone grape has done little to change that perception. A fickle variety if planted in the wrong terroir it tends to turn out flat and bland in climates that are too cool, flabby and oily in ones that are too warm. Margaret River's mild Mediterranean climate and the winery's boney lateritic gravelly soils are ideal in encouraging low yielding Marsanne grapes. 
      
A pale lemon green colour in the glass. The aromatics display subtle honeydew, apricot and jasmine nuances, which translate onto the light to medium-bodied palate. Some tight and fleshy citrus with blanched almonds. Creamy, savoury and a mineral edge across the tongue that I liked. Surprisingly and disappointingly falls off the cliff quickly. Not enough oomph to get over the magical ninety point mark but with proper cellaring, would be an interesting prospect in another few years. 

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 14.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 89+ Points.
Website: http://www.churchview.com.au/
    

2010 Torzi Matthews Vigna Cantina Sangiovese

From Torzi Matthews Vintners at McLaren Vale comes this Sangiovese from grapes grown in a region not readily associated with this variety, the Barossa Valley. The Vigna Cantina label (roughly translated as 'wine cellar') is a testament to winemaking artisan Dominic Torzi's Italian heritage and to his partner Tracy Matthews and their passion to produce a range of Italian varietals that are arguably the best coming out of South Australia these days. 

Fifteen year old Sangiovese vines at the Valley's Moppa Springs and Koonunga Hills sub-regions were treated in French oak for eighteen months. The result is an approachable, savoury fruit bomb of a wine. Rustic yet refined. Piquant yet plush.

Brick red in colour, some purply hues. Lifted spicy, earthy, tobacco and red cherry aromas. Some red currant and goji berry notes that are unusual but interesting. The medium-weight palate has persistent grippy, velvety tannins with spicy plum and cherry fruit flavours throughout. Long savoury finish. A delicious, food-friendly wine. One of the best Australian expressions of this Tuscan grape variety that I've tasted in a while.  

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 13.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 91 Points.
Website:: http://www.torzimatthews.com.au/home/  

2010 Yarraloch Estate Arneis

A variety that is finding a comfortable niche in Victoria's cool climate Yarra Valley where the conditions suit much like in its original home Piedmonte. There it is used to enhance and perfume Nebbiolo. From vines grown at nearby Coombe Farm and Murramong, this is the sixth vintage of Arneis from the boutique Yarraloch winery.

This 'little rascal' (the Piedmontese translation) invariably heads the Alternatives section of the better wine lists to be found around the traps and it is easy to understand its inclusion amongst such company. 

My notes say that in the glass a pale yellow hue with an inviting, clean citrus peel aroma and some herbal pear and ginger notes too. An attractive palate revealing a floral, citrus zing at the front end and notes of pear, lime and toasty nuts in the mid part. There's a touch of oak creaminess to complement the mineral acid backbone. Soft gravelly tannins on the back end and a refreshing dry finish. A vibrant and beautifully balanced, textural experience. 

Source: Restaurant Wine List. Alcohol: 12.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 92 Points.
Website:: http://www.yarraloch.com.au/index.php  

2009 Zonte's Footsteps Violet Beauregard Langhorne Creek Malbec

Malbec Grapes

One of the five grapes permitted in Bordeaux blends, Malbec was until 1956 a significant variety in south-west France. The great frost of that year put pay to the oldest vines there and now like Petit Verdot, takes a back seat to the Cabernet brothers Sauvignon and Franc and their mate Merlot. Most vignerons replaced the disease-prone Malbec with more resilient and economically viable alternatives. 

The predominant plantings in France are now found in the Cahors region where Appellation Controllee regulations require a 70% minimum content, Merlot and Tannat usually supplementing the remainder. In that southern region of Bordeaux it goes under the names Cot, Cot Noir or Auxerrois. 

Documented evidence suggests that Malbec has over 1000 synonyms, a legacy of widespread plantings at its peak in 30 different departments of France. It is interesting to note that the name Auxerrois in other regions such as Alsace is an entirely different grape variety. This synonym however may also suggest a hint as to its origins in a town of the same name in northern Burgundy and not as it is recorded, the Cahors region. 

Since the late 1980's Malbec has become Argentina's signature variety thriving in the hot, high altitude Mendoza Valley in the country's west where it avoids vineyard moulds and diseases that had pestered it in Bordeaux. Perhaps not as popular as the maestro Lionel Messi, it has however single-handedly put Argentina on the world's wine stage producing wines of different styles and price points. As its most widely planted variety Malbec or Fer as it is known there, has become the equivalent to the story of Australian shiraz.

If there was a spinoff in the Australian context, Malbec's resurgence, if that is what you call it, has been slow since its heyday a couple of decades ago when it was used primarily in Cabernet or Shiraz blends. With more knowledge nowadays about the health benefits of dark-skinned grapes such as Malbec and Tannat and with the efforts of entrepreneurial and enthusiastic vintners, the future appears positive for Malbec as a varietal wine in Australia.  

Malbec is found in vineyards throughout the mainland states and has thrived at Langhorne Creek for decades.  Zonte's Footstep's first 100% Malbec release packs a real wallop of blueberry. Glass staining opaque purple with an intense nose of smokey dark cherry, plum fruit, violets and the ubiquitous blueberries. Beside the stains, in the mouth you get big dark fruit and rich chocolate flavours playing centre stage. Full, well-rounded with a spicy edge to it that is softened by gentle, velvety tannins. Lingering, fruity finish. A touch flabby in texture and a little too much heat are my only concerns. Nonetheless, this is a wine that is certainly not backward in coming forward !  

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 14.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 88 Points.
Website: http://www.zontesfootstep.com.au/

2012 Sirromet 820 Above Vineyard Selection Verdelho

It's interesting to note people's reaction these days when you mention Queensland wine. Expressions of bemusement, incredulity to a sudden expertise in the state's climate, 'it's too hot and humid to grow grapes there', appear to be the norm. That may be the case in the tropical north where fruit wines predominate and are an acquired taste in themselves. But far further south on Queensland's border with New South Wales lies an elevated, cool climate region perched on the Great Dividing Range called the Granite Belt. With altitudes between 600 and 1200 metres the vineyards in the Granite Belt are amongst the highest in Australia. The climate and the ancient, rich mineral-laden soils make it the state's premier and largest region with over 500 hectares under vine.

Opened in 2000 and the winner of over 500 national and international awards, family owned Sirromet Winery is located at Mt. Cotton between Brisbane and the Gold Coast. Assistant Winemaker Jessica Ferguson says that "fruit for this year’s Verdelho was primarily from our relatively young (8 years) Night Sky vineyard (planted to white varietals only), with 15% also coming from the older St Judes’s vineyard" both of which are located in the Granite Belt Region. 

Now I realise that Verdelho is not considered an alternative variety according to the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show classification but for me notwithstanding the fact that it is a grape grown on all mainland states, it does not appear to be front and centre in people's thinking when it comes to white wine, giving it that 'esoteric' factor. Even the trendoid variety Gruner Veltliner got a jersey ahead of it amongst sommeliers, winemakers and retailers in an alternative varieties survey last year, which helps prove my point.  

Verdelho is indigenous to Portugal where it is grown in the Douro Valley but its reputation has come from its vinification into fortified wine styles on the islands of Madeira, east of Morocco. Grown also in Spain's Galicia Region and France's Loire Valley, its successful adaptation in Australia as not only a dry table wine of some complexity but also as both a late picked version and a fortified wine, has made it a truly versatile variety. Verdelho's history in Australia dates back to the 1820's when cuttings were imported from England by wool industry pioneer and pastoralist John Macarthur. 
   
The Sirromet is a pale straw yellow in the glass. Attractive lifted aromas of guava, honeydew melon, orange blossom and spicy fruit salad give the wine a fresh, lively nose. The palate is refreshingly dry, the natural grape acid backbone keeps it vibrant and clean. Cut grass, tangerine and tropical fruit flavours add to form a juicy mouthfeel. A smooth, flavoursome finish. I like the twelve percent alcohol here as some Verdelhos can get too overpowering in that respect. Excellent matched up with a chicken salad. A good alternative to the current market-dominated Sauvignon Blanc glut.

Source: Winery Sample. Alcohol: 12.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 89 Points.
Website: http://www.sirromet.com/?referer=foodwinesleep
     

2008 Westend Estate Calabria Private Bin Saint Macaire

The Saint Macaire grape has fascinated me for some time because of its rarity as a varietal wine. No longer grown in its native Graves region of Bordeaux and with little in the way of substantial literature about it, Saint Macaire is truly one of the world's most obscure varieties.  

Supposedly named after the medieval town of Saint Macaire, which is situated on the right bank of the Gironde River 50 kilometres south-east of Bordeaux or because it was widely grown in the region, statistics indicated that around two hectares existed up until the mid-1990's in the region. It appears that together with the other lesser known red varieties Carmenere and Gros Verdot, Saint Macaire succumbed to the dreaded phylloxera louse in the late 19th century and as a consequence, became all but a shriveled memory.

Despite its obscurity on the world stage, it has been resurrected in California where it is sanctioned for use in Meritage reds and in the Riverina Region of New South Wales at Westend Estate. The Calabria range of wines are premium barrel-matured alternative varietals that give the winery more feathers to its already impressive bow and the mantle as the only Australian producer of Saint Macaire. The two hectares of low yielding vines are from thirty year old plantings. 

Intense purple, almost black in the glass, it's like looking at ink. An aromatically intriguing combination of violets, spice, briary notes, white chocolate and bacon fat. The silky textured palate is complemented by black cherries, sweet dark plum flavours, spice and fine grain tannins. Well integrated vanillin oak characters to boot with a long, warm finish. Tastes older than its four years and will still be around for another four. A powerful yet approachable wine that has broken new grounds for not just the Riverina but Australian wine.    

Source: Winery Sample. Alcohol: 13.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 90 Points.
Website: http://www.westendestate.com.au/index.php 

2008 Kay Brothers Amery Vineyard Basket Pressed Mataro

The heritage-listed Kay Brothers Winery in the McLaren Vale has grown Mataro, the Spanish term or Mourvedre to use its French name, since the 1890's. The Barossa Valley has purportedly the oldest vines of this varietal in the world dating even further back to the time of the Crimean War.

Mataro / Mourvedre Grapes

The grape's popularity has waxed and waned over the years in sync with its blending partner Grenache right up until the recent upsurge in GSM blends. The tannins and alcohol of Mataro complement the Grenache with structure in addition to earthy, gamey flavours. Unblended examples are rare despite the varietal's extensive growth in the Vale and the Valley but are worth trying if you can get hold of them. Aged in American oak hogsheads for twelve months prior to bottling, this is the first release of the Kay Brothers Basket Pressed Mataro. 



Deep ruby red in colour with intense smokey, red and blackberry fruit aromas on the nose. Visualise the waft of fruit-laden punnets after a fire and this is what you get. Throw a little licorice, cinnamon and white pepper into the mix and you enhance the intriguing aromatic profile.   The palate reveals more brooding berry fruit flavours and dried herbs in addition to bitter black olives, spicy mince pie and tobacco leaf, which were nice. Leather and an earthiness that led me to think of farmyards, add a certain rustic element to the Mataro that I quite liked too but the alcohol heat disappointed. Fine chalky tannins and a smooth, savoury finish make this medium bodied Mataro a serious and complex wine that will develop further with age. Overall, a wine that I neither liked nor disliked but at an affordable price point, a good example to explore this varietal.  

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 15.0%. Closure: Screwcap. 
Rating: 89 Points.
Website:  http://www.kaybrothersamerywines.com/    

2010 d'Arenberg The Money Spider Roussanne

Roussanne Grapes

The McLaren Vale Region is world renown for its reds, but occasionally some whites appear from under the radar and made you sit up and take notice. This rare beast, a wine made of 100% Roussanne from Chester Osborn's d'Arenberg winery is one of them. There are far more prominent examples of the variety around such as the Aeolia from Giaconda but The Money Spider over delivers for a fraction of the price.

Normally blended with its cellar companion Marsanne to produce the Rhone Valley's famous Hermitage wines, Roussanne on occasions is allowed to reign supreme in varietal wines particularly here in Australia. Amongst a vast number of varietals and eclectic blends on its portfolio, d'Arenberg has championed the Rhone Valley white varieties since the mid-nineties. The Hermit Crab  Viognier Marsanne is a perennial favourite but the Roussanne is one of those quirky varietals that hits on both the pleasure senses and the cerebral front. If you want to experience what qualities the grape brings to the table, then Chester Osborn's example is the one to try first. 

The Money Spider is a complex and intriguing dry wine that will reward patience and perseverance. It pours a brilliant yellow gold colour and the subtle aromatics need a swirl or three to entice the honeysuckle, peach, honey and citrus blossom nuances to lift from the wine. I love the aromatics and further breathing reveals hints of cinnamon spice and vanilla bean. Wow. Worth the price of admission. But wine drinkers and cognoscenti alike do not live on the sniff alone ! 

The palate has this unctuous mouthfeel to it that reflects the exotic aromatics. Bolstered further by savoury pistachio nut, lime and nectarine flavours with an omnipresent honey nuance throughout, it never feels oily, rather balanced, fresh and lengthy. Texturally complex. Underrated in blends, Roussanne can be a diva on its own and in my opinion, this one is a standing ovation. Take a bow. Overall, a varietal that for me is now far more opulent than its stablemates Marsanne and Viognier which pallor in comparison. 

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 13.2%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 93 Points. 
Website: http://www.darenberg.com.au/
  

2007 Dog Ridge Reserve Petit Verdot

Petit Verdot Grapes

There's life in this old dog to be sure and I can assure you that this is not a dog of a wine. Sorry about the doggone puns, but it's time to pause now and reflect upon this beauty from the McLaren Vale ! 

Pre-dating Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot has traditionally been used to prop up and enhance its more illustrious counterpart in classic Bordeaux blends. In Australia and California however where conditions are more conducive to its late ripening properties, the grape is often produced as a single variety wine. Indeed, four times as much is grown here as it is in France and the quasi Mediterranean climate of McLaren Vale allows Petit Verdot to ripen to its intense and distinctive potential for which the variety is known. These characters are invariably intense colours, generous and fragrant aromas, rich dark fruit flavours and soft tannins. 


Dog Ridge is a small family-owned winery in the McLaren Vale with vineyards located throughout this premium wine growing region. The small Petit Verdot vineyard is planted over very ancient shallow topsoils with underlying limestone. Viticultural practices embrace biodiversity and sustainability. The variety's small, thick, black-skinned grapes produce an inky purple, glass-staining wine. Opaque and dark. Black as the ace of spades! Allowing time to aerate, there are lifted blackberry, plum, violet and liquorice aromas. A serious and intense nose. Bitter chocolate, spice, notes of oregano and cracked black pepper enhance the underlying firm, dark fruit mouthfeel. Quite a juicy palate, sharpened by fine-grained tannins and acid on the back end. Good weight and lingering soft fruit, mineral finish. I like the varietal expression of this Petit Verdot very much. There will be more planted of this underrated variety in future as global warming envelopes us. Forget your Cabs for the time being, put this impressive wine on your radar and give it a try. Make no bones about it !

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 14%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 92 Points. Website: http://www.dogridge.com.au/

2011 Oliver's Taranga Vineyards Fiano

Fiano Grapes

Oliver's Taranga winery in the McLaren Vale has a history dating back 170 years when the newly-arrived Oliver family from Scotland settled on land they named Taranga, after the word meaning "middle" in the language of the local indigenous Kaurna people. The 2011 Fiano is the fourth vintage and is 100% Estate grown. Minimal intervention was required in the vineyard as the variety is drought tolerant and disease resistant or in the winery as it happens with its ability to maintain moderate levels of acidity and little need for oak treatment.

The grape Fiano di Avellino has its origins in the mineral-rich, volcanic and calcareous hillsides around where else, Avellino in the Campania region of Italy. If you draw a line, it is located roughly north of Salerno and east of Naples. The variety itself dates back to Roman times when it was called Vitis Apiana because its luscious sugary pulp attracted bees (Apis in Latin). The Roman wine Apianum is thought to have been made from Fiano grapes. Earlier records suggest that the Greeks were responsible for its importation and cultivation in settlements throughout Campania. Nowadays, within the Campania region Fiano di Avellino is a DOCG (Denominazione Di Origine Controllata) variety, an Italian governmental quality assurance label that is modelled after the French AOC.

Fiano is a relatively new variety that has slowly made its way onto the Australian wine scene without too much fanfare but with great interest from winemakers and expectations that it will do well in our warmer wine growing regions. Pale straw-yellow colour in the glass with appealing aromas of ripe pears, pine needles and fresh white flowers. Very minerally and crisp on the palate with toasted hazelnut and floral nuances. Slightly orange citric and salty. A fascinating wine that I enjoyed even more the second night where notes of honey and beeswax added to its beguiling complexity. Perhaps serving at a cool rather than cold temperature will show Fiano's true characteristics. It conjures up images of wild, wet and rocky Mediterranean hills. This is a classy, well balanced, medium bodied wine with a refreshingly long finish. I hope Australian winemakers realise its potential here and produce more of the stuff in the future.

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 13%. Closure: Screwcap. Rating: 91+ Points. 
Website:  http://www.oliverstaranga.com/