2007 d'Arenberg The Cenosilicaphobic Cat Sagrantino Cinsault

If there was ever to be a quirky blend, it would come from d'Arenberg and one Chester Osborn. This union of Sagrantino - an indigenous red variety from Umbria - and Cinsault - a red variety whose stronghold is Languedoc - brings some serious funk to the table. The winery's first attempt at Sagrantino blended with Cinsault vines dating back to 1958.

The name refers to the fear of an empty glass, a misfortune that may have affected us all at times. In truth, it is a label dedicated to a particular winery cat who had a penchant for the red juice. Once its predilection was discovered, it was back to more conventional forms of thirst quenching for the frustrated moggie. 

Dark purple with rose hues visually. Sweet bark and smokey aromas with earthy black fruit flavours of the Sagrantino. Fragrant violets and herbal tea aromas add plenty of allure and interest.

Dry herbs and black currant fruit attack the palate on entry. Bright acid keeps things tight across the mid-palate. Integrated oak from eighteen months in new and old barriques, dark chocolate-coated cherries and dusty mineral tones. A long smooth savoury finish bolstered by grippy, chalky tannins. Think Shiraz Viognier as a comparison but out there.

This is not a big ballsy wine but a mid-weight that has held its own well over the journey. Sagrantino-dominant rustic flavours with some Cinsault perfume. One of a kind from one of a kind.

A 2009 vintage is now available for purchase from the d'Arenberg website.

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 14.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $25.00. Rating: 89 Points.

Website: http://www.darenberg.com.au/

2010 Heartland Wines Dolcetto & Lagrein

Another innovative blend of two northern Italian varieties from South Australia's Langhorne Creek. This marriage of 50% Dolcetto and 50% Lagrein - a variety indigenous to Trentino Alto Aldige - is the brainchild of owner and winemaker Ben Glaetzer at Heartland Wines.

Has there been a blend like this before ? A handful of winemakers here are blending Dolcetto and Shiraz/Syrah but this is unique, funky and nerdy ! The Lagrein is aged in new French oak for nine months while the Dolcetto is un-oaked to preserve freshness.

Dark purple glass staining colour. Savoury bouquet of cherry, black pepper and almonds. A dry, flinty, earthy red aromatically ringed by the dark plum and blackberry flavours of the Dolcetto. 

In the mouth, dark fruit flavours on entry. Licorice, dark chocolate and blackberry palate with meaty savouriness. Texturally smooth. Astringent sour cherry notes and earthy tannins across the palate. Bright acidity throughout, especially towards the tail. Oak is present but doesn't monster the wine's balance. 
Again, old world varieties with a new world twist. My note ends  'a marriage made in heaven'. 

Vibrant, complex and alluring wine that wants to be drunk with hearty food. 

Source: Retail Purchase. ABV: 14.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $21.50. Rating: 92 Points.

Website: http://heartlandwines.com.au/

2010 Zonte’s Footstep Canto Di Lago Sangiovese Barbera

Marriages of this nature are reasonably common as blends and roses in the Garda DOC region of northern Lombardy where the aristocratic Sangiovese is blended with the underrated Barbera. As yet this Italianate melange does not appear to have found much traction down under or anywhere else. Besides the Canto Di Lago, the only other blend of this kind here may be the Gapsted Tobacco Road NV Sangiovese Barbera from north-east Victoria.

Zonte's Footstep produced its first blend of these two old world varieties in 2005 and since then this novel assemblage has been a regular in the winery's portfolio. Both varieties are cordon cut, fermented individually before being blended together.

The composition of 50% Sangiovese and 50% Barbera is deep garnet in the glass. Fragrant aromas of strawberry, blackberry and licorice with dried autumn leaves in there too.

Some tangy cedar and vanilla notes upon entry. Fruit bomb of a palate. Red and black cherry flavours to kick off. Mid-palate displays dense, velvety layers of plum, blackberry, herbal piquancy and soft savoury Sangiovese tannins. The Barbera's juicy acidity keeps the blend balanced. One makes up for the other's shortcomings. Deliciously long and more-ish finish of blackberries and earthy spice. Slightly jammy overall but convincing, medium-bodied wine. 

The only quibble is that the vintage year is displayed on the back label in small font. Trendy perhaps but unfriendly. Notwithstanding, one of the best quaffers you could enjoy, not in the premium wine range but very drinkable indeed.

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 14.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $15.00. Rating: 87+ Points.

Website: http://www.zontesfootstep.com.au/default.asp

2009 Mt Franklin Estate Nebbiolo

The Holy Grail of Italian red grape varieties, Nebbiolo makes the iconic Barolo and Barbaresco wines from its viticultural heartland in Piedmonte, north-wast Italy. Mt Franklin Estate at Franklinford north of Daylesford, appears to suit plantings of Nebbiolo with a similar microclimate to the Piedmonte region with the added benefit of those 'x' factor soils there.

Ruby red colour with a purply brown hue. Heady aromatics of stewed prunes, crushed rose petals, dusty earth and cigar box that segue to a sophisticated palate dressed up in soft leathery tannins. Chocolate, tarry spice and prunes fill out the rest, it's got all the varietal qualities going on here in this medium weight Neb. Barrel aged for eighteen months adds more complexity. Dry mouth puckering, persistent tannins to the finish. Brooding in nature after time in the glass.

Only a small volume released of this classy little Nebbiolo, which still has a few years left in its legs. Look out for future vintages. Piedmontese in style that punches above its weight. Very Good.  

Source: Winery Sample. Alcohol: 12.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $25.00. Rating: 90 Points.

Website: http://www.mtfranklinestate.com.au/index.htm

2013 Trentham Estate Verdejo

Verdejo not Verdelho. If we can get around the apparent confusion with its Iberian relative, we're drinking Australia's first release Verdejo, the signature white variety favoured in north-west Spain's Rueda (DO) district. The variety is rarely harvested outside this region and is done at night to capture optimal freshness. The historic Trentham Estate on the Murray-Darling near Mildura, who have been pioneering alternative varieties for over a decade, has debuted this vintage onto the Australian wine landscape to great acclaim. A plethora of awards has followed this release including the Best Spanish White Wine and the Best Murray Darling Wine at the 2013 Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show. 

Verdejo Grapes

The variety's origins are fascinating. Briefly, it was introduced into southern Spain in the 11th Century from North Africa during the Moorish occupation and then spread northward through the migrating Mozarabs to Rueda. Production was interrupted by the phylloxera devastation in the late 19th Century, the trauma of the Spanish Civil War and the decades of stagnation under the Franco regime. Traditionally made as an oxidised sherry like wine, Verdejo's luck turned during the 1970s when Rueda winemakers used the variety to produce fresh, zesty white wines made available at reasonable prices.  

The 2013 Trentham Estate Verdejo is pale yellow in colour. It is not an aromatically challenged wine. There is lifted apple, peach and green apricot aromas with slightly florally, grassy notes. Very fresh and attractive on the nose. Golden apples, lime and mineral mid-palate with a kiwi fruit salad back end. Some of the characteristics of its Iberian relative spring to mind. Good acidity, fine sour tannins and balanced richness. Supple and soft-bodied. Delicious drinking.

Verdejo is an underrated variety that could thrive in our warmer regions, let's watch this space. If it is anything like this release from Trentham Estate, with its food-friendly appeal and value-driven price, there won't be any confusion. Liked this wine, it's a great find. 

Source: Winery Sample. Alcohol: 12.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $16.00. Rating: 90+ Points.

Website: https://www.trenthamestate.com.au/Home.aspx

2012 Bleasdale Vineyards Langhorne Creek Moscato

Pale lemon, almost white in colour to this light-bodied Moscato from South Australia's Langhorne Creek Region. Made from the Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains variety as it is known in French, it is grown extensively throughout mainland Australia. Muscat Blanc is a member of the noble Muscat family of Vitis Vinifera, appears to be one of the oldest varieties in the world known to the ancient Greeks and Romans who were instrumental in its dissemination.  
  
This wine exhibits grapefruit, rose petal and musk aromas that segue nicely onto a fine oily texture on the palate. Fragrantly perfumed, fresh and clean. Entry is all rose petal and grapey, citrus fruit. There are nuances of over ripe peach. The slightly carbonated character and crisp citrus acidity balance the wine's semi-sweet, fruity flavours. Soft spritzy finish. Well made and appealing.

Didn't think I'd enjoy this, but wonders never cease in the world of wine. Serve chilled as either an aperitif or digestif. Your call.  

Source: Winery Sample. Alcohol: 6.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $15.00.
Rating: 90 Points. Website: http://www.bleasdale.com.au/

2011 Nicholson River Winery Sauvignon Blanc Semillon

These two varieties are a classic combination best known from regions such as Margaret River. This wine comes from the other side of the country, Victoria's cool climate Gippsland Region and is quite a different creature from examples out west. 

Straw yellow in colour with a pale green hue. Crushed lime leaves, green beans and grassy aromas. Palate has green capsicum notes with a strong herbaceous and tropical guava fruit element. Fresh and zingy throughout with a crisp long finish. A light- to medium weighted dry wine.

The Sauvignon Blanc brings the fruit and crunchy acidity to the party while the Semillon, from the winery's 36 year old vines gives the blend ageing potential and its solid structure. A stylish drop.

Source: Winery Sample. Alcohol: 12.5%. Closure: Screwcap.        Price: $25.00. Rating: 91 Points.
Website: http://nicholsonriverwinery.com.au/

2012 Nicholson River Winery Sangiovese

Established by Ken and Juliet Eckersley in 1985 after vines were planted in 1978, Nicholson River is regarded as a trailblazer of the Gippsland Wine Region. Located by the Gippsland Lakes between Bairnsdale and Lakes Entrance, it is part of the eastern zone of the region. 
With glorious views of the Nicholson River, the vineyards are subjected to it is claimed, some of the longest ripening periods in the world resulting in complex Chardonnay and delicate Pinot Noir wines and a buttery lemon Semillon that I recall with considerable fondness from many moons ago !    

Dark ruby red colour with a purple tinge in the glass. 
Dark cherry, tobacco and savoury earthy aromas. Hints of oak and a bacon fat undertone. Sweet entry then a concentrated dark cherry flavour, piquant raspberry and savoury dried herb mid-palate. Firm tannins with an earthy finish. Lingering acidity suggest a wine still in its youth. Fresh yet elegant. Good structure, light- to medium-bodied with a smooth texture. Shows true varietal definition. 
There is a little European panache about this delicious first vintage Sangiovese. A refined example in line with the reputation of other Nicholson River wines. Very impressive and worthy of consideration.  

Source: Winery Sample. Alcohol: 12.5%. Closure: Screwcap.       Price: $22.00. Rating: 92 Points.
Website: http://nicholsonriverwinery.com.au/

2007 Lyre Bird Hill Gewürztraminer

The South Gippsland Region has a climate and diversity comparable to Burgundy and similarly excels in the production of delicate versions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Other varieties such as Viognier, Malbec and Gewürztraminer crop up in the area too adding interest to that diversity and to this underrated part of Victoria's winescape.

The Lyre Bird Hill Winery established in 1986 is situated on the Koonwarra-Inverloch Road Koonwarra amongst picturesque rolling dairy country. The 2007 Gewürztraminer is from estate grown fruit but according to winemaker Owen Schmidt, past vintages have been supplemented by fruit from the Yarra Valley because of poor yields.   

Straw yellow colour. Flamboyant bouquet of lychee, tart citrus, candied musk and rose petals. Everything you'd expect. Segues to some sweetness upon entry but flinty and spicy in the main. An off dry style, apricot, mango, cinnamon, a hint of honeyed sweetness with an oily texture, nice concentrated elements reflecting bottle age. The finish however had a sour to bitter taste that was unpleasant, interestingly 
dissipating the following evening. Good to start off but a letdown in the end.

Source: Winery Purchase. Alcohol: 12.2%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $15.00. Rating: 85 Points.

Website: http://www.lyrebirdhill.com.au/index.php

2012 Delatite Deadman’s Hill Gewürztraminer

The Delatite Deadman's Hill Gewürztraminer has been a value play on the Australian wine market and considered one of our finest for many years now. Generally Gewürztraminer is a challenging variety to sell let alone to pronounce and to the senses, well, punters either love it or loathe it, much like a particular AFL club and its belligerent supporters.  

The grapes for this Gewürz go back to the first variety to be planted at Delatite's Upper Goulburn Region vineyards after its establishment in 1982. Dry grown, hand-picked and whole bunch pressed, it reflects the winery's high altitude, biodynamic terroir and their emphasis upon doing cool-climate aromatic white wines well.   

Bright straw colour with a water-like hue. Expect the heady and that's what you get. Candied musk, tight lychee and fragrant rose petal and frangipani aromas leap out of the glass. 

A soft, semi-sweet entry. The palate delivers juicy, off-dry, spicy tropical fruit flavours, cloves and ginger. Medium bodied and well-balanced with a zesty acid backbone and a crisp finish. There is a lingering aftertaste of cloves, lime pith and some flint rock. 

Overall, a restrained, delicate style. The aromatics are there but the palate has some ways to go. I'm just not feeling it yet. Not as concentrated as I thought it would be but put that down to youth. Will develop points with ageing, as we all do. A solid, consistently well made wine that you can rely on to deliver varietal expression.

Source: Retail. Alcohol: 13.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $19.00. Rating: 90 Points.

Website: http://www.delatitewinery.com.au/

2010 Bream Creek Vineyard Late Picked Schönburger

This is certainly an esoteric drop if there ever was one. Claimed by Bream Creek as the only stickie made from Schönburger in the world, it is nonetheless an elegant, botrytis-free example of a dessert wine. 

Pale yellow to green in colour. Intriguing aromatics include rose petal, fresh citrus, honeysuckle blossom and spicy mandarin peel. Subtle musk and honey notes as well. Medium dry wine and on the lighter side of medium-bodied. Smooth texture of candied or glazed fruits. Cumquat, lychee, grapefruit and apricot.

There is sufficient refreshing acidity to keep the wine balanced overall, which leads to a finish of sweet fruits and powdery phenolics. While deliciously sweet, the palate is not mawkish with the finish still fresh enough with citrus acidity to keep it from cloying. Not as luscious as I thought it would be and doesn't have that oomph factor. Good.  

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 9.5%. Closure: Screwcap (375ml). Price: $25.95. Rating: 89 Points.

Website: http://www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au/index.php

2011 Bream Creek Vineyard Schönburger

A rare variety in Australian vineyards, Schönburger is a hybrid from Pinot Noir (its mum), Chasselas Rose and Black Muscat. Developed in the late 1970's in Germany, this pink-skinned variety with its naturally low acidity is now more at home in the vineyards of Southern England where the cold climate suits cultivation well. Other plantings occur in British Columbia and the north-west states of America.

The acclaimed Bream Creek Vineyard on Tasmania's picturesque east coast was planted in 1973 during the resurgence in the island's viticulture making it one of the state's oldest commercial vineyards. Another milestone followed as Viticulturist Fred Peacock introduced Schönburger to the cool maritime climate of Bream Creek in the 1990's making it the first commercial planting of the variety in the Southern Hemisphere. There are now other plantings on the island as interest has increased amongst growers.

Schönburger Grapes

There is a green hue to the pale straw yellow colour in the glass. 
Lifted lychee, rose petal florals, yeasty bread and musk aromas. Fresh and clean. A line of soft lime acid cuts through a medium-bodied, smoothly textured off-dry palate. Grapey, subtle spice and tropical fruit flavours as well. There is a little spritz and a light dusting of tannins. Good length with chalky phenolics at the tail end. Not as pungent as a Gewürztraminer to which it could be compared or even a Pinot Gris, but rather more delicate. Will complement a variety of Asian-type cuisines. A refreshing and enjoyable find. Recommended.

Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 12.4%. Closure: Screwcap.     Price: $20.90. Rating: 91 Points.

Website: http://www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au/index.php

2010 Kalleske Florentine Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc

A classy wine harvested from low yielding mature single block Chenin Blanc vines at the Kalleske's property in the Barossa Valley. Named after the first daughter of founder Johann Georg Kalleske who migrated to Australia from Prussia in 1838, the Florentine is entirely wild yeast vinified, half fermented in a mix of Russian and Hungarian oak hogsheads with the rest in tanks. The wine that has been certified organic / biodynamic.    

The 2010 vintage is straw yellow in colour. Intriguing aromas of lemon curd, honeysuckle and cut green apple followed by notes of kerosene and barrel oak. There's a creamy almost oily texture to the palate supported by a line of crisp citrus acidity. Enough components to start a fire ! Some spice and mineral character at the back end that remain on to a lingering dry finish. A layered, generously flavoured, medium-bodied example of an underrated variety. Recommended. 



Source: Retail Purchase. Alcohol: 12.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $19.00. Rating: 91+ Points.

Website: http://www.kalleske.com/index.html

2010 Lark Hill Canberra District Gruner Veltliner

Given as a Christmas present and inadvertently left in the cellar until recently. Strange as I'm onto these emerging varieties pronto. Despite my reservations as to its viability, it had shown signs of graceful ageing, which the variety can do. Moreover, the reviews of Australian Gru's are often of current vintages, rarely of ones with a few years under their belt and this one didn't disappoint after some aeration. 

This hallmark and widely-planted Austrian variety whose genetic parents are Traminer and the obscure variety St. Georgener-Rebe was pioneered in Australia by the certified biodynamic Lark Hill Winery after Jancis Robinson M W identified their high-altitude vineyards in 2002 as the perfect terroir for its planting. Their first vintage of G V in 2009 was also the first one produced in Australia. There is a bullish forecast now too that the Adelaide Hills is the go-to region for future production of quality fruit with its good ripening days and cold nights.

Golden green straw hues to this dry wine. Immediately, intriguing fig, lime and tobacco aromas. Expect a rich layer of honey, minerality, lemon, nuts and a feint creaminess to the palate. An aged Chardonnay or Riesling comes to mind. There is an oily texture underpinned by the Gru's hallmark acidity, which is peppery and spicy. Full-bodied but close to being fat, maybe too many Big M's while in the cellar ! Complex and rich with a tangy aftertaste. Exciting alternative to the Sav Blancs and P G's of this world. This is more than some trendoid, fly-by-night curiosity but will become the future big thing in whites.

Source: Gift. Alcohol: 12.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $45.00. Rating: 91 Points.

Website: http://www.larkhillwine.com.au/

2011 Mount Majura Vineyard TSG Tempranillo Shiraz Graciano

Rioja varieties Tempranillo (43%) and Graciano (16%) team up with a 41% Shiraz component to make up this unique and exciting blend. From elevated vineyards and reportedly from a difficult harvest, this  
is a wine of surprising complexity and class. 

An attractive light crimson red colour with a fragrant bouquet of black plum, cherry cola, pepper and sweet spice. Light to medium bodied. Fleshy red and black fruits form the luscious core and there are some mineral notes, which I like. Fine grained, supple tannins provide support and lead to a long silky finish. 

Soft, spicy and generous, this is a deliciously savoury wine that could easily take an ice bath and still drink beautifully. This is Mount Majura's fourth vintage of this intriguing blend and definitely a wine to watch in the future. Try with tapas or mezze dishes. A Qantas Business Class wine. Highly Recommended.

Source: Winery Sample. Alcohol: 13.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $30.00. Rating: 93 Points.

Website: http://www.mountmajura.com.au/index.html