2014 Tallavera Grove Carillion Vineyard Estate Grown Verduzzo

Verduzzo could be considered rare in Australia with about half a dozen wineries producing this white variety here. Another variety Garganega, occupies a similar position in Australia with just as many producers and with origins from the same region in Italy. 

Traditionally grown in the Friuli Venezia-Giulia and Veneto regions of Italy, the ancient Verduzzo grape is used to produce both dry varietal wines and late harvest or passito style wines. Some of the finest examples come from the Colli-Orientali DOC Region. The grape has a challenging reputation for making wine as the flavours together with its high phenolic content exist in the skin. It has often been said that Verduzzo masquerades as a red wine such is its tannin content, unusual in whites.

Established in 1997, the Carillion Vineyard on the slopes of Mt Canobolas in Orange is one of three properties family-owned by Davis Premium Vineyards, the others located in the Hunter Valley - where the Tallavera Grove cellar door is based - and at Wrattonbully in South Australia. 

   

Mid-straw yellow colour. Fresh aromas of pineapple, nectarines and green apples with a musk-like undertone. 

Dry and a faintly oily texture. Slightly astringent at first with a palate of green apple, black tea, chalky dry tannins and nutmeg. There is quite a bit of grip to the mouthfeel. Intense citrus mid-palate. Spicy and smooth on the finish. A well-balanced wine. Softened up more on the second evening's drinking with some interesting honey nuances present.

Ready to drink now but can see this cellaring for a few years. Good value for an exciting, food-friendly variety. 

Source: Sample. ABV: 13.5%. Closure: Screw Cap. Price: $20.00. Rating: 90 Points. Website: http://tallaveragrove.com.au/

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2014 Tallavera Grove Rogue Series Funky Ferment Verduzzo

The Rogue Series is Tallavera Grove's cool and innovative approach to its Italian varietals or The Italian Jobs as it states on the label. Others in the Series include Vermentino, Aglianico and Sagrantino. This Verduzzo from the winery's Carillion Vineyard in Orange, has undergone six months of fermentation on skins, softening the usually astringent qualities of the grape and making the final product complex, weighty and textural.

One of four premium vineyards owned by the Davis Family, Carillion formerly known as Jokers Peak Vineyard, is situated on the slopes of Mt Canobolas in the cold wine region of Orange in the high central tablelands of New South Wales. The terroir, particularly the climate is ideal for grape growing and winemaking and the Verduzzo is surely at home here as it is in Friuli Venezia-Giulia, its traditional home.  

Before describing the wine, kudos to the wine label designer for such a striking piece of work. It is certainly an attention-grabber. Perhaps the funky refers to the label ? 
The wine itself has a light lemon gold colour. The restrained nose offers up lime blossom, citrus, cinnamon and some interesting leesy notes, which reminds me of fresh pastry. 

The first sip is dry and fresh, leads to a rich, slightly tart, light- to mid-bodied palate that bursts with crisp green apple, nectarine and Nashi pear flavours. Some biscuit and herbal notes too. 
Not as astringent as I would have first thought but the phenolics are there along with chalky-type tannins and a fine acid intensity. Because of such qualities, Verduzzo has commonly been referred to as the white for red drinkers. Easy to see why. 

It's a well-balanced, robust wine with a long spicy, stony finish and versatile enough to cope with a variety of food. Highly recommended.

Source: Sample. ABV: 13.5%. Closure: Screw Cap. Price: $30.00. 
Rating: 92+ Points. Website: http://tallaveragrove.com.au/

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2012 Atze's Corner The Renegade

A Spanish-inspired blend of Grenache/Mataro/Graciano from the Barossa Valley that is unique in Australia.
From a small family-owned winery, only 150 cases were made by winemaker Andrew Kalleske.

Garnet brown in colour. Aromas of raspberries, plums, pepper and savoury spices are immediately appealing.

But there was a disconnect between these and the palate where it did not deliver the goods. Whether it was just this bottle, I don't know but it didn't live up to the hype for me.

The earthy raspberry of the Grenache, the brooding dark berries of the Mataro and Graciano's spicy tannins should have been more convincing but just couldn't go the distance. Medium bodied, subtle and slippery texture. 

Interesting, easy and gluggable but there is better out there.  

Source: Retail Purchase. ABV: 14.7%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $18.00. Rating: 88 Points.

Vendor: http://www.differentdrop.com/

Website: http://www.atzescornerwines.com.au/

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2012 Shadowfax Minnow

The Shadowfax Winery is located at Werribee, half way between Melbourne and Geelong and although too far north to be technically included in the Geelong region, it more or less is still included in that G I region. Its first vines were planted in 1998 and the winery's inaugural release of the Minnow wine was 2011, a blend more common in South Australia than Victoria.  

The attractively labelled Minnow is a quintessential autumn wine. A blend of 40% Carignan, 21% Grenache, 21% Cinsault and 18% Mataro, it invites comparisons to the reds of the south of France. Rustic yet charismatic. The thought of a cool and sunny afternoon, a patio with friends, autumn leaves and a glass or two of this delicious wine is not lost on me.

The colour is ruby red. Dark fruits, white pepper and cured meats on the nose. Savoury aromatics with some sweet licorice notes.
Light- to medium-weighted savoury wine that is all Carignan dark plum fruit and dried herbs on entry. Smoke notes reflect time in French hogsheads. A juicy smooth mid-palae of warm tang and zippy acid supports brooding raspberry, pepper, earth and meat flavours. All four varieties integrate together well and the dusty moderate tannins add to the overall enjoyment. Drinkable to the extreme. Recommended.  

Source: Gift. ABV: 13.1%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $25.00. Rating: 91 Points.

Website: http://www.shadowfax.com.au/home/w1/i2/

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2014 Chaffey Brothers DÜFTE PUNKT

Dufte Punkt is not a reference to the group Daft Punk and its soulless, manufactured robot music but is translated as The Aromatic Point. And it delivers on that front with loads of character and some.

Avant garde and unique in Australia, the wine is a 43/29/28 blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Weisser Herold aka Kerner. What interests me - just as the Aranel component did in the Aja White Blend - is the Kerner, a 1929 German white variety that is a Riesling-Trollinger hybrid. It was bred by one August Herold in honour of one Justinus Kerner whose claim to fame among other achievements were songs and poetry about wine. I wonder what he would have thought of the Dufte Punkt ? Or Daft Punk for that matter ! 

From a single northern Eden Valley vineyard composed of limestone quartz gravel soils, the Chaffey Bros Wine Co. has manufactured a classic field blend with the Kerner coming from one of only two vineyards growing the variety in Australia. The other is located at Robinvale Organic Wines in north-west Victoria for those keen on fun facts. 

This is a wine light straw yellow, almost watery in colour.

Lime, grapey, musk and mineral quartz aromas. Some green apple action too. Very perfumed with big aromas.

Palate is light, medium sweet grapey fruit upfront and secondary flavours of Turkish delight and lycees. Zippy acid throughout with a spicy, dry finish.

What I found very interesting is that besides being such a well-balanced blend, this is a wine where it is possible to appreciate its individual varietal components. The Riesling's mineral and citrus elements, the Gewürztraminer's spicy florals and the Kerner's texture and body. 

A funky yet refined drop. Like it. 

Source: Retail Purchase. ABV: 11.7%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $20.00. Rating: 90 Points.

Website: http://www.chaffeybros.com/

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2014 Wills Domain Block 9 Margaret River Scheurebe

In guess the variety game, this is a ripper with which to bamboozle your friends at a dinner party. Unless someone has a MW, it may prove an interesting and entertaining exercise.

Although little is planted in Australia, the answer is Scheurebe, a German variety that is a crossing between Riesling (its father) and a wild grape vine called Buketttraube - translated in English as bouquet grape. According to Florian Boehm, Cellar Door Manager at Margaret River's Wills Domain Winery, "Buketttraube is not grown anymore in Germany. The crossing was created by Dr. Scheu where its name comes from. Rebe is the German word for vine."

When we think of Margaret River, mainstream varieties tend to come to mind. Located in the sub-region of Yallingup, the multi-award winning Wills Domain is owned by the Haunold Family whose German background has had long winemaking traditions since the 1300’s, mentions Boehm. He explains further: "Due to this background Darren Haunold decided he would like to introduce a new German variety to the region. There is an area in the vineyards which is too damp for red varieties but it’s a great terroir for Scheurebe which likes these conditions."  

A widely repeated quotation about 'Scheu' as it is referred to, had me amused and thought I'd share it even if its relationship to Riesling brings up some family issues. In my opinion, more of a wild child !

Scheurebe is Riesling just after it read the Kama Sutra. Put another way, Scheu is what Riesling would be if Riesling were a transvestite. If Riesling expresses all that is Noble and Good, Scheu offers all that is Dirty and Fun. It is Riesling's evil, horny twin.

"The 2014 is the second vintage," Boehm continues "so it’s very interesting for us how great it performs here in Margaret River with its distinctive aromas, pretty floral nose and acidity, which is not as high as in Riesling."

Bright silvery straw in colour. Stunningly translucent. An extra '+' to the score for this quality. 
Very perfumy with red current, gooseberry, wild grassy herbs and orange blossom notes. 
Think of a cross between Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc and you have the aromatics of the 'Scheu.'   

There is an expressive palate of green apple, honeysuckle, minerality and blood orange notes. Great balance overall. Mouth watering, juicy and subtle tannins. Off-dry, fresh and bright with a lingering finish of pink grapefruit. 

Attractively presented in a brown bottle no less. Aromatic, delicious and such a great find. 

Postscript. Wills Domain believes that it is the only producer of Scheurebe in Australia at present.



Source: Sample. ABV: 12.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $29.00. Rating: 92+ Points.

Website: http://www.willsdomain.com.au/

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2010 Clan Del Sud Green Man Malvasia

The name Clan Del Sud is translated as 'Clan/Family of the South' explained vineyard owner Mark Lewis whose maternal family line extends back some 600 years in southern Italy. It is in recognition of the proud and successful heritage of the Cocozza family throughout history that he continued, was behind the name. 

The Cocozza family has adopted the ancient myth of the Green Man for their wine labels, a symbol of life and rebirth found in vegetation, the natural plant world and to the earth itself. It is a metaphor continued in their philosophy and to their vineyard practices, the vines of which are located on the high, north-facing side of Mt. Samaria in Central Victoria. Lewis described that they had been members of Biodynamic Agriculture Australia for 12 years and hoped to transition to certification in the near future as part of their holistic approach to the environment. 


Malvasia has been identified as the name of an ancient family of grapes not dissimilar to the Muscat family. Its origins stretch back 2000 years to it is believed, Greece and historically was grown throughout Mediterranean countries, particularly in Italy where it flourishes today under a variety of names or clones and styles.  
The variety is not that extensively grown here in Oz - in blends more than straight varietals - and I was surprised to learn that double the number of Greco De Tufo vines existed here last year than Malvasia vines ! 
I do remember some years ago a Riesling/Malvasia blend from the erstwhile Mornington Peninsula winery Ermes Estate. Chalmers blend Malvasia Istriana with Picolit to produce a Passito style dessert wine that is common in Italy. 


The 2010 Green Man Malvasia won a Gold Medal at the 2011 Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show and the Trophy: Chairman's "Wine To Watch" (Chief of Judges Max Allen) in its short career. The dry grown Malvasia Istriana grapes from which this wine is made, had only been harvested twenty months earlier with half fermented in stainless steel, the balance in old oak barrels. Simon Steele at Yarra Valley's Medhurst Wines is the winemaker says Lewis and "he is eager to work with us on the Italian varietals we grow" that include both white and red varieties. 

In the glass the old Green Man displays pale straw colours with a greenish tinge. After some breathing, aromas of bosc pear, white flowers, thyme and honey notes. Some hints of roasted almond and baking bread, which was interesting. It is fresh, warm and mouth-watering.

Round and richly textured in taste with nutty, dry herb and peach characteristics backed up by good acid and a mineral backbone. Appealing grapefruit citrus and honey finish. Savoury with some phenolic grip to it. Light to medium-bodied wine with a viscous, almost oily quality. Shows loads of heart and character, an alluring complexity and basically, it's such great drinking. Age has certainly not wearied this Malvasia and let's hope there's more stand alone varietals like this one in future years. Excellent. 







Source: Sample. ABV: 13.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $36.00. Rating: 92+ Points.

Website: http://www.clandelsud.com.au/index.html

2014 Clan Del Sud Green Man Malvasia

Quite different to the 2010 Green Man, the 2014 vintage is more fresh and fruity. Owner Mark Lewis explained that the 2014 Malvasia was picked in late March last year, pressed and cold settled, fermented and aged in old oak for about 8 months, before being bottled in December.

Pale straw yellow in the glass with tinges of green.
Subtle aromas of apricot, dried herbs and lime. Some wet rock components interestingly to this Malvasia Istriana. 
Soft and powdery on entry with a mid-palate marked by apricot and orange peel. A lime backbone supports a brisk mineral component throughout. A dry, light- to medium-bodied wine with fresh citrus notes, lean, spicy and lively. Soft tannins on a seamlessly smooth palate impress. Bursting with heart, appeal and drinkability. 
Refreshing finish to what is an underrated variety that hopefully we will see more of in the future.

The variety's history is quite intriguing. The origins of Malvasia Istriana appear at Monemvasia on the Greek Peloponnese Peninsula around the Middle Ages. From there, Venetian seafarers and traders transported cuttings to most parts of the Mediterranean and as far as the Canary Islands and the Istrian Peninsula - part of modern day Croatia and Slovenia -  under the name Monemvasia. Such was its reputation, it was referred to in recent documentation as the Chardonnay of the Middle Ages. The variety later became Italianized to Malvasia and today is predominantly cultivated in Italy's Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. 
There are one or two other competing theories, most notable of which was that the returning Crusaders brought back cuttings with them to Venice from Constantinopoli in the early 1200's from where it spread and flourished in north-east Italy. As with all grape varieties, there is a story or stories to tell that gives some perspective to the wines we enjoy today. 



Source: Sample. ABV: 13.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $36.00. Rating: 91 Points.

Website: http://www.clandelsud.com.au/index.html

2014 White Rock Vineyard Dornfelder

The White Rock Dornfelder is Australia's first release of this dark-berried grape originally created in 1955 from a crossing of the German varieties Helfensteiner and Heroldrebe, both of whom were crossings themselves and which begs the question. Was the variety double-crossed into existence ?

Seriously, released onto the market in 1979 in presumably West Germany, the variety accounts for nearly 10 percent of total vineyard surface area there, second only to Pinot Noir in the red wine grape variety stakes.

Australia's only plantings are at the boutique family-owned White Rock Vineyard situated at Kimberley, north-west Tasmania where conditions are similar to Germany and where there is not a lot of leeway to ripen Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon according to owner Phil Dolan. "I planted the Dornfelder because I had heard that it ripens the same time as Pinot noir so would be a good alternative red variety for Tasmania" he stated. He was not to realise how good when it took out a gold medal and the overall trophy for Best Other Red at the 2014 International Cool Climate Wine Show.

Dolan continued. "The cuttings came from the Riverland Vine Improvement Association and they only had 100 vines, most of which have been pulled out because of lack of interest." 
He went on to mention that their winemaker, Alain Rousseau of Frogmore Creek is doing a great job with it. "I couldn't find anyone to make it as it was such a small crop but Alain said, "Oh, that's new. I'll do it."

He used carbonic maceration to get fruitiness and aged it in oak to add complexity. About 15% Pinot Noir is added for that extra edge, however sales are restricted but mixed cases can be done, Dolan explained.

In the glass the wine is a dense opaque ruby purple in colour due to the grape's red pulp. Floral aromas with blueberry, pepper and smokey notes on the nose. The aromas are fresh and slightly sweet.
There are some brooding elements to the Dornfelder with flavours of tart dark cherry, plum and cloves on the palate supported by smooth tannins and a soft lively acidity. Overall, good depth of flavour and structure to this medium-bodied wine. Velvety, rich textural mouthfeel that flows onto a white peppery finish. 

There's a well-crafted balance of fruit, oak and acid to this wine and it's easy and satisfying to drink. A real privilege to try Australia's first release of what could be a promising variety in our cooler climate wine regions. Excellent.

Source: Sample. ABV: 13.5%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $36.00. Rating: 91 Points. Website: http://www.whiterockvineyard.com/

2011 Steels Creek Estate Colombard

Traditionally grown for distilling into Cognac and Armagnac, Colombard is the love child of that old philandering grape Gouais Blanc and Chenin Blanc and believed to have originated in the Charente region in south-west France. This white variety has never had the mantle of greatness attached to it although its expansion in California has risen recently and the French are now producing reasonable varietal releases from it.

Australia's Murray Darling and Riverina regions use the variety predominantly in the production of blended 'cardboard handbag' wines. Primo Estate's La Biondina is the atypical exception to that trend. There are other examples where its high acid levels help in warmer climates. Steels Creek Estate in the cool Yarra Valley and situated in a picturesque woody nook has grown Colombard since 1981 and is unique in the region amongst the largely mainstream varieties there.

It is interesting how owner and winemaker Simon Peirce tells the story about how he got the Colombard in the first place. The winery was supposed to get Riesling from the nursery in Gol Gol but was sent Colombard vines mistakenly instead, he recalls. Years of persistence and struggle with the vigour of the vines, reducing bud numbers and fruit thinning to enable satisfactory ripening has according to Peirce, helped produce a decent wine with a loyal following. 

It's a white to pale gold colour with an utterly intriguing bouquet of leaf, seaweed, rubber glove and citrus notes. 
Palate is dry, minerally, light-bodied and texturally smooth. There's tropical fruit notes, guava in particular and a subtle citrus kick at the tail end. Crisp and refreshing but I had to mark the quick exit the Colombard took at the finish. A little more fuller and longer and this really would be a ripper wine. 

Source: Winery Purchase. ABV: 11.0%. Closure: Screwcap. Price: $20.00. Rating: 88 Points.

Website: http://www.steelsckestate.com.au/index.html